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381 



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1894 
Copy 



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UNITED STATES OF AMEEICA. 



^^,,VE BERi^K ^^^^ 




,..1 
Jl 

^^ OF CGAT^^gN. 
A CONDENSED TRmTJt$WmT. V 

•mi 23 ^894- 

ON THE ''■-' * 

Culture of Berries 



By Jacob Biggle 



With Leaves from the Experience of many Practical 

Berry Growers in all parts of the 

United States 



ILLUSTRATED 



Doubtless God could have made a better fruit than the strawberry, 
but He never did" 



philadelphia 

Wilmer Atkinson Co. 

1894 









Copyright, 1894 

BY 

WiLMER Atkinson Co. 




A BOUQUET OF GANDYS 

(With Harriet's Compliments) 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Strawberries. 

Banquet and section, Plate III. 
Barton's Eclipse, Plate VI. 
Beder "Wood and section, 

Plate X. 
Beverly and section, Plate IX. 
Brandy wine, Plate VII. 
Bubach, Plate I. 
Crescent, Plate V. 
Dayton, Plate I. 
Edgar Queen and section, 

Plate V. 
Glendale, Plate IX. 
Greenville and section, Plate II. 
Hallihan, Plate II. 
Haverland, Plate III. 
Jucunda Imp'd and section, 

Plate XI. 
Leader, Plate VIII. 
Ivovett, Plate VI. 
Mary and section, Plate XII. 
Muskingum and section, 

Plate VIII. 
Parker Uarle and section, 

Plate VII. 
Pearl, Plate III. 
Phillips and section, Plate XIII. 
Saunders, Plate IV, 



Shuster's Gem and section, 

Plate X. 
Timbrell and section, Plate IV. 
War field, Plate IV. 

Raspberries. 
Cuthbert, Plate XIV. 
Gregg, Plate XV. 
Kansas, Plate XV. 
Loudon, Plate XIV. 
Lovett, Plate XVI. 
Older, Plate XV. 
Palmer, Plate XVI. 
Royal Church, Plate XIV. 

Currants. 
Cherry, Plate XIX. 
Fay, Plate XVII. 
North Star, Plate XVII. 
Victoria, Plate XVIII. 
White Grape, Plate XIX. 

Gooseberries. 
Chautauqua, Plate XX. 
Columbus, Plate XX. 
Dovs^ning, Plate XX. 
Houghton, Plate XX. 
Smith's Improved, Plate XX. 



IIvLUSTRATlONS. 

In Black and White. 



PAGE 

Annie Laurie, New '^'ariety 76 

Beder Woods, Dish of 69 

Berries, Some Popular 66 

Berry L,eaf 82 

Berry Tray 98 

Blackberry, The 121, 122 

Blossom, Perfect and Imperfect 55 

Brandywine, A Dish of Royal 74 

Crawford, A Full Grown 68 

Cultivator, Planet Jr. Horse, at Work 38 

Cultivator, Planet Jr., Narrow Tooth 39 

Cultivator, Two Wheel Hand 39 

Felton, A Notable Quartette 71 

Gandys, A Bouquet of 2 

Hills at Bearing 43 

Hoe 42 

Marker 31 

Marlboro Raspberry 119 

Matted Rows, Narrow 44 

Matted Rows, Wide 44 

Millers, A Dish of 116 

Muskingum, Group of 65 

Parker Farle 63 

Pearls, Box of Beautiful 25 

Pickers, Accounts with . 97 

Plow, Ditching ~. . . 54 

Potted Plant '. . 34 

Potting Runners, Method of 32 

Raspberry Trellis 118 

Rows a Month After Planting 43 

Saunders, A Bouquet of 60 

Setting Plants, Manner of 26, 27 

Strawberry Blossom 11 

Take One ! . . 18 

Thimbleful, A .50 



CONTENTS. 



Chapter I. 


Chapter 


II. 


Chapter 


III. 


Chapter 


IV. 


Chapter V. 


Chapter VI. 


Chapter 


VII. 


Chapter VIII. 


Chapter IX. 


Chapter 


X. 


Chapter 


XI. 


Chapter XII. 


Chapter 


XIII. 


Chapter XIV. 


Chapter 


XV. 


Chapter XVI. 


Chapter 


XVII. 


Chapter XVIII. 


Chapter 


XIX. 


Chapter 


XX. 


Chapter 


XXI. 


Chapter 


XXII. 


Chapter 


XXIII. 


Chapter 


XXIV. 


Chapter XXV. 


Chapter 


XXVI. 


Chapter 


XXVII. 


Chapter 


XXVIII. 


Chapter 


XXIX. 



page 

The Beginning 9 

The Strawberry 12 

What an Acre May Do 17 

Soil and Location 19 

Manuring and Preparing the Ground . . 22 

Planting 26 

The Planting Season 29 

Summer Planting 31 

Summer Planting— Continued 34 

Saving Labor 38 

Distance Apart • • 44 

Mulching 48 

Underdrainiug and Irrigation 51 

Staminates and Pistillates 55 

Ten Varieties of Elstablished Merit ... 61 

Ten Other Good Varieties 67 

Newer Varieties on Trial 73 

What They Say 77 

Brief Analysis of Varieties 81 

The Old Strawberry Bed 83 

Do Varieties Run Out ? 86 

Leaf Rust and Insects 89 

Picking and Marketing 93 

Picking and Marketing — Continued . . 97 

Contributors' Portraits loi 

A List of Dou'ts 110 

Aftermath 114 

The Raspberry 117 

Currants and Gooseberries 123 



PORTRAITS. 



PAGE 

Adams, J. W 14 

Baldwin, O. A. E 107 

Barns, W. D 44 

Brandt, D 103 

Buechly, K. M 104 

Butler, Geo. S 105 

Cone, Kdw. W 41 

Crawford, M 108 

Dwyer, T. J 90 

Farmer, L. J 108 

Farns worth, W. W .... 40 

Gillin, Robt. H 93 

Hale, J. H . 13 

Hawkins, J. R 95 

Hovey, Chas. M 106 

Ingram, Edw. T ..... . 106 

Johnson, Sylvester .00. 105 



PAGE 

Kellogg, Geo. J 49 

Little, John 78 

Lovett, J. T ...... . 107 

Purdy, A. M 87 

Reid, K. W 35 

Root, A. I 15 

Sharp, A. G 41 

Smith, Benj. M 79 

.Smith, Horace J 104 

Smith, J. M 103 

Stayman, Dr. J 46 

Thayer, M. A 83 

Timbrell, H. S 40 

Willett, IJugene 23 

Williams, H . 102 

Wright, Charles 48 



CHAPTER I. 



THE BEGINNING. 

'■'' Let your light shine.'''' 

IHOivD that it is right to tell what we know in any 
line of farming, if our knowledge be of value to 
others and will help them to success. Now, I 
have been engaged, more or less, in strawberry culture 
for over a dozen years, and have in 
that time learned a little, and this 
little I am ready to communicate to 
my neighbors and even to impart to 
a wider circle, wide enough to take 
in the whole Farm Journal family 
and the entire remnant of the popu- 
lation of the country. 
The only trouble is I do not know it all ; and yet 
it may be best that I do not, since I have discovered 
that those folks who know it all, are apt to get behind 
the lighthouse and are left in the dark themselves. 

Confessed, I do not know it all ; yet Harriet knows 
some and Tim knows a heap ; together we are so far 
from a universal knowing that I have not hesitated, in 
preparing this book for publication, to call on a large 
number of bright, experienced, enterprising, fearless, 
obliging men, to tell what they have learned about 
berries and how to grow them. Nobly they have 
responded to my call, and the pages to follow will bear 
witness to their wit, their knowledge, their liberalitj^ 
their thoroughness and the kindness and good will that 




lo biggi^e; berry book. 

animates their hearts. This book could stand alone 
upon genuine merit as a treatise on small fruits with- 
out a line from my own pen, so rare and valuable are 
the contributions from those fine gentlemen who have 
given so freely of their knowledge and experience on 
this subject. 

It will be seen, therefore, that many pages of my 
book will contain explicit information furnished by 
berry experts, and that this knowledge is gathered 
from all parts of the country, in all latitudes and lon- 
gitudes, and from practical men who know what they 
are telling about ; and it is obvious that a summary of 
the experience thus brought together must be of vastly 
more value to the one who would educate himself in 
this line of horticultural work, than the opinions and 
writings of any one man, whose operations and obser- 
vations are mostly confined to one farm or one neigh- 
borhood, no matter how smart that man may be. 

One of the features of this work which I thought 
would commend itself to the public is the picture 
gallery, containing the likenesses of many skilled 
berry growers, most of whom are contributors, who 
have had marked success in their calling and who are 
honorably known the country over. 

Certainly it will gratify many readers to look into 
their honest faces, to come to know them better, and 
thus appreciate them more. 

Another feature is the showing of the berries in 
natural colors, which has not, to my knowledge, ever 
been attempted, or at least accomplished before. It 
cost time, money and infinite pains to procure accurate 
paintings of the fruits, and to transfer them to the pages 
of the book, each specimen being printed in eight 



The beginning. II 

separate colors in order to produce the required truth- 
fulness of shading. Of course most of the credit of 
success in this line must accrue to the publishers, and 
to them I freely give it. My part was to point the 
way and to give what aid I could in obtaining correct 
specimens of the berries during the fruiting season. 
When the Editor of Farm Journal asked me to 
write a berry book, I declined, for I did not think I 
could do it, and I did not want to engage in the work, 
having more to do than I cared for already ; and 
Harriet thought I had better not undertake the task, 
and Tim thought I would be foolish to bother with it ; 
but that persistent Editor took no notice of my refusal, 
said he would help me, said, '' Oh, fie, go ahead! " 
said something about hiding our light under a bushel, 
and what a grand thing the book would be ; and so 
here I am engaged in the opening chapter and already 
filled with enthusiasm in the work and hoping to soon 
fitly accomplish a useful and worthy task. 




CHAPTER II. 

THE STRAWBERRY. 

A pr,EA. 

When the culture of strawberries is commenced in a small 
way and extended from year to year, there need be no 
failures, for no garden or farm crop is more reliable in 
annual returns. — Tim. 

BEING the first fruit to ripen the strawberry comes 
to the table when the appetite is capricious, as 
a welcome visitor. So beautiful in form, color 
and fragrance, it is among fruits what the rose is to 
flowers. In flavor so delicious, in healthfulness so 
beneficial that invalids gain strength while its season 
lasts. Strawberries fully ripe and freshly picked from 
the vines may be eaten at every meal, in saucers 
heaped high like pyramids, and nourish the most 
delicate stomachs. 

The charms of the strawberry do not all end in the 
eating of it. No fruit is so soon produced after being 
planted. It affords employment — pleasant, easy and 
profitable for poor men with little land ; for old men 
with little physical strength ; for women, boys and girls 
who love to till the soil and delve in mother earth. So 
certain to grow, equally sure to sell at paying prices. 
It is so suited to all soils, and its culture is so soon and 
so bountifully rewarded by big berries, that the exercise 
and joy of success bring with it health and a good 
conscience. 

Note also the labor w^hich is saved to the family 



THE STRAWBERRY. I3 

indoors. No lard, tough beef, or dried apple pies to 
be manipulated and toasted in mid-summer over red- 
hot ranges. For the strawberry comes from the garden 
to the table in the most tempting and presentable 
shape, none of the newer and sweeter varieties requir- 
ing sugar or any other condiments, to fit them to grace 
the table of a king. 

In the list of enthusiastic gentlemen who were 
asked for pointers in strawberry growing is J. H. Hale, 
of the State of Connecticut, and the United States of 
America, for he belongs to the latter ; and here is one 
of the things he wrote: *' No man should fool him- 
self into telling his wife that he 
hasn't time to bother with such 
small trash as berries, but will buy 
all the family wants ; he may not 
be much of a liar, but those of us 
who have so often heard that old 
chestnut about buying all the 
berries the family wants, know 
that man is way off. He never J- «• hale 

did and never will buy one-tenth part as many berries 
as the family will consume, if he will give them all 
they can wallow in right fresh from the home garden. ' ' 

Hale is right ; few in the country will buy berries 
when berries are ripe, and after they are gone, of 
course they will not buy. 

The only just and true way for an honorable and 
manly man is to grow them, and let everybody about 
the place have all the}' can eat. 

Down in Massachusetts, in the town of Spring- 
field, lives a good gentleman by the name of Adams — 
J. W. Adams. Along with Hale and a host of other 




14 BiGGIvE BERRY BOOK. 

estimable persons, his portrait will be found in this 
book, and his is such a face as would grace any gallery", 
however select. And he has joined Hale in a plea for 
the strawberry in every garden, submitting an argu- 
ment that is irresistible. He says, " How many berries 
will the average farmer buy? Will it be one quart a 
week ? " A housewife was confronted with the promise 
of her well-to-do husband, that instead of growing them 
they would purchase of James Harvey all she wanted. 
At the end of the season she said, *' How many berries 
do you suppose we bought ? Not a single quart. " 

This forcible question and answer is altogether too 
common. Farmers who can grow 
with verj- little expense, this most 
healthful and delicious of all fruits, 
deny to themselves and their fam- 
ilies the greatest table luxury which 
Providence has bestowed upon peo- 
ple of temperate climates, when a 
single square rod of ground might 
J. w A.D\Ms yield them more intrinsic value 
than an acre in many other products. 

Strawberry growing is to many people a great 
mystery, as the writer has had impressed upon him by 
numberless inquiries, both verbal and written. There 
is no fruit crop so immediately productive, none which 
attaches to itself so much enthusiasm and quick reward 
for labor expended. They flourish to a degree in all 
soils and in all temperate climates. The number of 
varieties is now vmlimited, and suited to all tastes. 
When the Wilson's Albany was the only Ijerr}^ grown, 
on account of its acidity many people discarded the 
strawberry from their tables, who, now that sweeter 




THE STRAWBERRY. I5 

and better flavored berries have sviperseded it, use them 
at every meal. 

One large farmer in the country consigns to his own 
table a peck a day ; others provide a quart for each 
person, and dispense almost wholly with meat so long 
as this berry can be had in good condition. A very 
intelligent young lady living opposite, who has 
travelled the world over, enjoys life just as long as 
the supply of strawberries continues ; but at other 
seasons she is more or less of an invalid. And yet 
there are too many who regard them as mere luxuries, 
and refer you to pork and potatoes for nourishment 
and substantial sustenance for body and mind. 

I sent far and wide the inquiry, *' Ought everybody 
have all the strawberries they want?" and of many 
responses I beg to quote a few : 

Certainly they ought, and every one with a twenty foot lot 
A. W. Slaymaker should grow his own strawberries. There 
are health and amusement in it as well as profit. Del. 

Yes, sir, most emphatically. Every- 
body ought to have all the strawberries 
they want. If they do not care to grow 
them they ought to be in some business 
so that they can afford to buj^ them 
quart after quart, morning, noon and 
A. I. Root night. Not only because 
they give enjoyment but because they 
ai-e the cheapest, best and most natural 
medicine to tone up the system that has 
ever been invented. They are both vict- ■*■• ^* ^OOT 

uals and drink. The man who cannot afford to give up his beer, 
tea and coffee, yes, and tobacco too, when strawberries are 
plenty and cheap, is a man to be pitied. O. 

Geo. J. Kellogg Yes, and some for the neighbors that have 
none. Wis. 




l6 BIGGI.K BERRY BOOK, 

No one should be without strawberries ; they are the first 
native fruit of the season. Kvery farmer should have a bed and 
E, W. Reid let his boy live on the fat of the land. He would 
not care to go to town after the day's work for a frolic if he 
could get all the strawberries and Jersey cream he wanted. O. 

A. P. Sampson Yes, yes, yes, 5'es, yes, yes, yes ! Mass. 

Yes, by all means, and there is no excuse for not, as any one 
H. S. TiMBRELL having a small plot of ground can grow them, 
and they are so cheap in the market that all others can buy them. 

N. Y. 

All they can possibly eat means health to many a poor mortal 
with weak digestion. In all the world there is not a better tonic, 
Eugene Willett to say nothing of the comfort of straw- 
berries three times a day on the table, and filling up twice or 
three times between meals from j-our own little patch. N. Y. 

Yes, decidedly, and the man in the country who has a piece 
of land, either owned or hired, and does not have this delightful 
T. J. DWYER fruit from his own garden on his table three 
times a day for four weeks at least is behind the age ; is doing an 
injury to himself and to those whom God has placed under his 
care. N. Y. 

J. W. Adams The progress of human events seems to be tend- 
ing in that fraternal direction. Mass. 

Better go without coffee or tea than to go without straw- 
WlLLlAM Hoover berries; eat them three times a day and 
feel happy and healthy. Col. 

J. H. Hale This is evident, do not talk about it, just act. 

Conn. 



CHAPTER III. 

WHAT AN ACRE) MAY DO. 

Anything you tell it. — Tim. 

NOVICES in berry culture will be surprised to know 
that more bushels of strawberries can be grown 
on an acre than of wheat or corn and of pota- 
toes, but such is the fact, as testified to by many 
experienced growers. 

A. M. PuRDY One hundred and fifty to 200 bushels, but these 
were exceptional cases. Ordinarily 75 to 100 bushels. N. Y. 

G. S. Butler From ico to nearly 200 bushels. Have known 
of parties growing 250 bushels. Conn. 

I have never kept an exact account of an acre of strawberries, 
but we have fruited them in a small way at the rate of 650 per 
T. J. DWYER acre, and my next door neighbor, Mr. Crissey, 
fruited a large bed this year which yielded at the rate of 700 
bushels per acre, the season being dry and unfavorable for a 
yield. N. Y. 

W. W. Farnsworth Our usual crop is from 100 to 120 bushels. 

O. 

W. C. Wilson Dare not tell. Would be posted as a liar 
from Maine to Texas if I should tell of my biggest crop. 111. 

M.y^.- Thayer On the Thayer fruit farms we have raised 225 
bushels to the acre. Wis. 

Geo. F. Beede Over 300 bushels. Small plots at the rate of 
500 bushels. N. H. 

J. W. Adams The only lot we measured and kept any count 
of is the Crescent, at the rate of 10,600 boxes, or quarts, to the 
acre. Mass, 

Geo. J. Kellogg We have fruited small plantations that 
have grown at the rate of 700 bushels. ,Vis. 



l8 BIGGLE BERRY BOOK. 

Edward T. Ingram We picked from our best oue-quarter 
acre iii bushels and 19 quarts. Pa. 

One thousand to 17,000 quarts to the acre at picking. The 
Dr. J. Stayman varieties that will not yield from 5,000 to 
10,000 quarts to the acre in the average season are not worth 
growing. Kan. 

John Little Two hundred and fifty bushels, sometimes less. 

Can. 

I myself have grown strawberries at the rate of 
200 bushels per acre, biat one year I expected 300 and 
got about 50. In each case Haverland and Bubach. 
Robert H. Gillin, a veteran grower of my own state, 
sold from one matted row of Gand}^, 323 feet long 
and 3 feet 4 inches wide, in 1892, 140 worth of fruit ; 
the proceeds of the same row in 1893 were $50 ; in 
1894, $45, which is at the average rate of |i,34o per 
acre per year. The berries were very large and fine 
and sold at a high price per quart — from 15 to 25 cents. 




CHAPTER IV. 



SOIL AND I.OCATION. 



THE strawberry will adapt itself to a great variety 
of soil aud location. It is grown snccessfully in 
every state of the Union, as it is prized by the 
people everywhere. Different varieties require some- 
what different conditions of climate and soil ; thus one 
that thrives on sandy land may not do so well on clay, 
and certain kinds will not stand a hot southern sun, 
that succeed in northern latitudes ; but I have thought 
best to take the testimony of others on these points 
and let the reader have the benefit thereof. 

lyight loam, for such as Crescents, Michel's Karly ; heavy 
A. M. PuRDY loam for such as Bubach, Haverland, Sharp- 
less, etc. N. Y. 

Au3' soil that will produce a good crop of potatoes will 
J. W. Adams give fair returns with strawberries, or land 
inclined to be moist and not subject to injury by drought will 
be best. Mass. 

If early bearing is wanted take an early variety, set to sunny 
southwest lying laud ; if late fri:it, take a late variety, set to east 
E. W. Reid or northeast and allowing the mulch to remain 
as long as possible. I have made a failure numbers of times 
on both fruit and plants to north land, hence would not advise 
any one to use for strawberries. O. 

For raising plants I should prefer low bottom land inclin- 
ing to sand, made very rich with manure, but for raising berries 
A. I. Root I would take upland, turn under clover sod and 
work in all the stable manure I could get hold of. There is 
practically no such thing as making it too rich. O. 

W. F. Allen, Jr, Strawberries will do well on almost any 
soil that will produce a good crop of corn. Md. 



20 biggi^e; bkrry book. 

W. D. Barns Any good corn land will grow strawberries. 

N. Y. 

Most any good rich soil will grow strawberries, and sandy 
Charles Wright soil with slope toward the south will give 
the earliest berries, whilst a heavy clay loam produces the largest 
crop. Del. 

H. S. TiMBRELL For a good medium crop, a level exposure 
with good clay sub-soil will give best results. N. Y. 

Geo. Q. Dow I do not think the soil or location makes much 
difference if properly prepared and made fertile. N. H. 

The strawberry will grow in any soil containing sufficient 
Eugene Willett fertility and from which water can be kept 
by surface or underdrainage, the latter preferred if not naturally 
dry. N. Y. 

Benj. M. Smith Any kind where you can grow a good crop of 
corn or vegetables. Mass. 

G. S. Butler The best soil j^ou have and located near a good 
market, if grown for commercial purposes. Conn. 

W. W. Farnsworth Any location that is as free as possible 
from spring frosts and where the ground does not wash, O. 

Soil that has considerable sand in it is best. However, any 
good soil that does not bake and become lumpy will answer. 
T. J. DWYER The finest and largest fruit is grown on heavy, 
black loose land. Land that inclines to the south is of course 
best for the early varieties, but for all other purposes we would 
prefer the plot as level as possible. N. Y. 

A close, compact, retentive loam with little or no free sand 
H.E. McKay is best for solidity, strong color and setting 
qualities. Miss. 

Edward W. Cone Clay will answer if well drained. Wis. 

J. G. Buchanan High land and clay loam. O. 

E. M. BUECHLV We like a clay loam well fertilized and 

slightly rolling. O. 

John Little Rich loam ; south for early, north for late. 

Can. 



soil, AND I^OCATION 21 

A deep, rich, raoi&t, sandy loam soil, well underdrained, is 
J H. Hale best for most varieties although a few do better 
in light) sandy soil, while some others require a stiff clay. 

Conn. 



Summary Remarks- 

The question is answered so well in the above 
that I can add nothing of value. The point is brought 
out by several correspondents that for early berries a 
southern slope and sandy soil are most favorable ; 
while for late berries clayey loam is better with a 
shady exposure ; also that certain varieties do better 
on some soils than others. 







CHAPTER V 



MANURING AND PREPARING THE: GROUND, 



Prepa7-e thoroughly and manure heavily — Tim. 

WHAT previous preparation should the ground 
have when strawberries are to be planted and 
how best to fertilize ? On these two impor- 
tant questions I bring in abundant evidence from 
most trustworthy witnesses, enough, I should say, to 
settle them in the minds of all who do not now have 
some special contrary knowledge of their own, inac- 
cessible to the majority of mortals. The first witness 
is J. H. Hale. 

A well rotted clover sod that has been deeply plowed or 
spaded, with the addition of subsoiling- if it has a stiff bottom. 
After plowing, a heavy top dressing of well rotted stable manure 
supplemented with potash in some form, or say 3,000 pounds of 
J. H. Hale fine ground raw bone, 500 pounds of muriate of 
potash, and 200 pounds each of tankage and nitrate ol soda per 
acre, all evenly broadcasted, followed by a thorough pulveriza- 
tion of the soil by harrowing and reharrowing about four times 
as mnch as the average plowman will think he ought to Conn 

A one year's clover sod well manured and planted to pota- 
toes, and well tilled one year, makes one of the best preparations 
W. W. Farnsworth for strawberries : but any other plan 
that will make the soil reasonably rich and in good tilth, and 
free from weed seeds, will answer, O. 

W C. Wilson My plan is to manure with barn-yard manure, 
a year before, and grow a crop of potatoes. 111. 

Wm. D. Barns strawberries should follow a hoed crop. 

N. Y. 



MANURING AND PRKPARING THE GROUND. 



23 



Plant on land that has had clover and one corn crop grown. 
After the clover manure can be best applied in the shape of bone 
A Wv Slaymaker and potash, as they will not bring such a 
crop of weeds. Del. 



A potato field covered with manure soon after the potatoes 
are dug and plowed at once, having the furrow set on edge. If 
E. W. Reid clay soil, plow again in early spring, as it will run 
together ; but if sandy, work with cultivator and apply about 
fifteen to twenty tons per acre of good manure before the culti- 
vator IS put to work O. 



Our ground planted this spring was 
treated a year ago last winter to about 
one carload of manure to the acre. 
About June ist, this, with a heavy crop 
of clover, was plowed and planted to 
Eugene Willett potatoes, kept clean 
and free from weeds during the sum- 
mer. Had we considered it lacking in 
fertility then, should have applied from 
300 to 600 pounds of some commercial 
fertilizer containing more or less potash, 
usually the more potash the better, 

N Y 




EUGENE WILLETT 



If stable manure is used it should be piled up a year previous 
S. W, Gilbert and pitched over a few times to kill all weed 
and grass seeds. Mo. 

The ground can hardly be made too rich, but should have 
been cultivated with corn or some other hoed crop for a year or 
two years, if the white grub abounds. Any system by which a 
large quantity of stable manure can be worked into the soil and 
well pulverized and made light, will be of advantage in setting 
J, W. Adams and after cultivation. Where barn-yard manure 
camjot be readily applied, equally favorable results have followed 
the use of commercial fertilizers, ground bone, superphosphate 
and ashes. Our foreman prefers superphosphate to any other 
dressing. This he applies in small quantities before setting the 
plants, and every ten days during the growing season of June, 
July and August. Mass. 



24 BIGGLE BKRRY BOOK. 

Horace J. Smith if the manure is mostly green, plow in a 
good part of it, and do not put so much in on top. Wis. 

The ground should be manured a year before, and cultivated 
E. M. BUECHLY in some hoed crop, thoroughly killing all 
weed germs, and thus saving much labor in keeping the bed 
clean. O. 



Summary Remarks. 

Nearl\- all wisely recommend preparing the ground 
a year or two before the strawberries are to be planted 
by cultivating to hoed crops and then getting the soil 
mellow and the weed seeds sprouted and out of the 
way. Some recommend barn-yard manure, while 
others prefer some commercial fertilizer ; but I have 
no doubt it is best to use both ; but the stable manure 
had better be thoroughly rotted, and should have been 
well heated and several times turned, so that the hay 
and weed seeds contained in it will have germinated. 
However, I do not see how, if green manure be used 
and plowed under as much as four or five inches, the 
weeds can sprout and grow to do mischief. This hint I 
get from Horace J. Smith, of Green Bay, Wis. 

Several recommend turning down a clover sod. 
Can anybody tell what a clover sod is not good for ? 
Hale recommends perfect harrowing and a fearful dose 
of fertilizers, and I guess the more the merrier. He 
might have added a word in favor of that splendid 
implement, the Acme harrow. My plan is to apply 
fertilizers after plowing, and frequently through the 
fruit season, along the rows, using a two-row distrib- 
uter made by Spangler, York, Pa. Little and often 
is a good motto in the application of fertilizers to the 



MANURING AND PREPARING THE GROUND 25 

strawberry bed. It is a good plan to use fertilizers as 
above, the first season, then with a thick mulch of 
good horse stable manure, well freed from the seeds 
of obnoxious plants, put on in the early winter. I do 
not often fail in getting a fine crop of berries, unless 
something unforeseen occur. 




BOX OF BEAUTIFUL PEARLS 

Tim's Favorite 



CHAPTER VI. 



PI^ANTING. 



Never set out a feeble plant. — Tim. 



I have; found the Aspinwall potato planter, with the 
ridgers on, a very vahiable implement for striking 
out for the strawberry rows. It can be made to 
ridge up slight!}", which is right, and it deposits fertili- 
zer in the row where needed for the young plants. 
Let the roller follow, and then draw a straight line 
with a garden rope, press the rope in with the feet 
for a mark, or set the plants along the rope. See to 
it that all feeble plants are thrown out and all old 
plants. 

The color of the roots is a distinguishing mark 
of old plants. Such plants are worthless, and if any 
are discovered in packages sent from a nursery, they 
should be thrown away ; it is useless to set them. 

A special trowel, Fig. i, flat like a 
mason's trowel, but wide and full at the 
point, with extra large handle, is the best 
tool to use for setting. Let a boy go 
ahead and drop. 

Be careful not to set too 
deeply as in Fig. 2, or too 
shallow as in Fig. 3, and do 
not bunch the roots as in Fig. 4, but see 
that every one goes in like Fig. 5. ^^"- ^ 

Above all, pinch the earth very hard against the 
roots of the plant, and this may be done with the toe 



Fig. 




PLANTING. 



27 




of the boot, afterwards scraping some 
loose earth around the plant with the 
trowel and fingers, to prevent the earth 
baking. 

To ascertain how many plants are 
required for an acre, multiply the dis- ^'§^- 3 

tance apart of the rows in feet by the distance apart 
of the plants in the rows, and divide the product into 
43,560. Thus, if the rows are four feet apart and the 
plants two feet, it will take 5,445 to plant an acre. 

A spading fork or small sized potato hook are two 
good implements for taking up plants for setting. 
A trowel is too slow. Rake the beds with a good steel 
rake before digging, which takes off most of the old 

runners and leaves the plants in good 

condition for cleaning. 

If the plants are in plant beds dig up 

the whole row, throwing out the old 

plants. If plants are to be taken from a 
Fig- 4 fruiting bed dig from the side of the rows. 

As fast as shaken from the soil have men and boys 
gather them up, holding the plants in the left hand. 
Crown of the plants as near even as possible, and 
when the hand is full trim off all runners and lay in a 
handle basket, roots straight, and all one way. 

Take to the packing house. Clean and bunch 
them and dip the roots in water, and if to 
be shipped, pack in moss and forward as 
soon as possible. If to be set out at 
home, put them in the cellar for twenty- 
four hours before planting. The tip 
ends of the roots are cut off just before 
settinp- 





28 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

For summer planting take up the plants with dirt 
adhering. 

To grow strawberries successfulh-, beginners should 
order their plants very early in the spring. If a 
dozen, thirty or a hundred only are wanted, they can 
be sent by mail free of cost. Five hundred, or more, 
should go by express. If ordered early in April the 
nurserymen will send them as soon as the ground 
is fit to plant them. 

When plants are received by mail or express 
from a distance they should be opened at once and 
the roots should be dipped in water. If the ground is 
not ready for them, break open the bunches, spread 
out the roots, and pack them closely together, so it 
will be impossible for the roots to dry out. 



>5) 



CHAPTER VII. 

THK PlyANTlNG SEASON. 

For family beds fall or spring ; for market only in the 
spring. — PuRDY. 

THE time of y^sx to set out the strawberry bed 
will be considered in this chapter, and here I 
offer the concentrated wisdom of a legion of 
practical men. 

Earl_v spring every time. Every day's delay means a loss in 
J. H. Hale vigor of plant growth the fruiting season, as, for 
the most perfect fruitage, we must have the best developed 
plants. Conn. 

H. S. TlMBRELL Early in the spring is the best time. N. Y. 

W. W. FaRNSWORTH April or early May in this latitude. O. 

G. S. Butler Very early spring. Conn. 

Eugene Willett Spring will always be found most satisfac- 
tory. N. Y. 

All planting should be done medium early, say late in March 
Charles Wright or during April, if planted before frost 
in the fall the ground is apt to be heaved.; if planted too late in 
the spring the heat soon kills them. Del. 

A strawberry bed for market should be set in the spring as 
Wm. D. Barns soon as possible after the ground is fit to work 
and men and teams can be employed. Wis. 

Benj. Buckman As early in the spring as the ground is in 
good condition to work. 111. 

As a general thing early in the spring, although market 
gardeners and some other people find it very convenient to plant 
A. I. Root them at any time of the summer that crops can 
be taken off the ground. The earlier this summer planting is 
done the better. O. 



30 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

George F. Beede E;arly in the spring. N. H. 

Edwin Beekman in New jersey the first week of April. N. J. 

The month of April is the best one month of the year in 
J, W. Adams which to transplant strawberry plants, especi- 
ally for beginners. Mass. 
Samuel Miller In this latitude the first of March. Mo. 

There are two objections to late setting. First, plants past 
Edward W. Cone full bloom are not in condition to be moved 
successfully. Second, there is always danger of failure in case 
an early drought should prevail. Wis. 

George J, Kellogg Early in the spring. Planting in 
August or later is not profitable in the north. Wis. 



Summary Remarks. 

These people plainly focus early spring as the best 
period for setting out a strawberry bed, jvist as early 
as the work can possibly be done. To accomplish 
this, however, it is necessary to procure the plants 
early, which cannot alwa3'S be done unless provision 
be made for it in time. It is well, therefore, if one 
has to send to a nursery for plants, to apply to one 
who makes a point of having plants at the proper 
time ; or, if one grows his own plants, as he should, 
let it be in a southern exposure, in light soil, and take 
the mulch off early, so the plants can get a start. 

But is early spring the only good time to set out a 
strawberry bed? Well, on this point, as on many 
others, it will not do to be positive, until we probe 
the question to the bottom. My own judgment is 
that the advice given in this chapter is good and will 
do to follow, at least by beginners, but let the reader 
proceed to the next chapter, and read what our good 
friend Adams says about summer planting. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

SUMMER PIvANTlNG. 

Have had good success in August. — Andrew Willson. 

SO much has been said against the transplanting of 
strawberries at any season than spring, says 
Mr. Adams, that I purpose to show a more per- 
fect way for many people, if not for all, and to remove 
from farmers especially their threadbare maxim that 
*' It's cheaper to buy than to bother to grow 'em." 

If a person wishes to begin or to try new varieties, 
it is advisable for him to get his plants as early in the 
spring as it will be safe to sow early pea seed, and 
plant them in a row where they will have room to 
make runners. When the blossoms appear they should 
all be removed. The ground about the plants shovild 
be kept mellow by that best single tool — a fine tooth 
wooden rake. Encourage early runners to take root 
by fastening them to the ground with hooks or stoneS 
or clods of earth, that they may not blow about. 

As early in August as strong young plants can be 
had, without destroying too many younger runners 
not yet rooted on a belt of land which you are sup- 
posed to have already prepared by deep plowing and 
enriching, draw a heavy line where you wish to plant 
the first row. With a flat wheel or with a common 
hoe you can press this line into the soil, when it can 
be removed altogether. By this — \ \ j \ — j — i — j — 
simple method your rows will be j j j j j 

perfectly straight. \ \ \ j \ \ \ 

A marker made in the form I I I I I I I 



32 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

of a rake with fine teeth fifteen inches apart, can be 
drawn first lengthwise and then crosswise, keeping 
the end tooth in the line already imbedded in the 
soil. Where the lines cross will be the points at 
which plants are to be set, and no runners must be 
permitted to grow. 

If more than five rows are wanted it will be for the 
convenience of cultivators and pickers to omit the 
sixth row for a path, and then as the arithmetics would 
say, proceed as before. 

It is very important that these young plants at this 
season should be removed without cutting or even dis- 
turbing the roots. Small pots are often used into 
which the roots are induced to grow and this method 
is to be commended if properly done. They must 
not be allowed to remain until they are too compactly 
rooted, that is, pot-bound. 

The picture represents 
method of potting runners. 
^p.x^^^^^^^^^^ When we ship them to a 
distance, in order to protect 
the young roots, we send in the pots instead of 
knocking them out and wrapping the balls of earth in 
papers. 

In our own garden, however, our land being some- 
what inclined to clay, we can take up the plants with 
a round- trowel with a lump of soil adhering and thus 
remove them to their new quarters without loss. 
Their growth will not in the least be retarded. The 
best crop we have ever produced was from plants set 
out on the nineteenth day of August, the plat being 
250 feet long and five rows wide. It was a trial bed 
with numerous varieties, but the product of one end 




SUMMER PLANTING. 33 

was measured and proved to be at the rate of 10,500 
baskets per acre, all grown within ten months from 
time of setting. Had they been transplanted with 
less care, the value of the crops would have been of 
little account. 

When planted in the spring it requires the best 
part of two seasons to perfect a large yield, thus losing 
the use of the land for one entire season and adding 
much to the labor for so much longer a period ; for 
the cost of cultivating so short a time in hills is trifling 
compared with hoeing and weeding where runners 
are permitted to grow. 



Summary Remarks. 

I desire to add my testimony to the advantage of 
growing berries by this plan, for it is the method of 
Ezra Bell, one of the most successful growers of fine 
strawberries to be found in the model State of New 
Jersey. The Ezra Bell berries, for size, appearance 
and quality have long been famous in the Philadelphia 
markets. 



CHAPTER IX. 



SUMMER PIvANTING. 
(Coutinued.) 



Time muy be saved by summer planting of rare 
varieties. — Tim. 

THIS subject is partially treated in the previous 
chapter, but I think it best to give it a little 
more ventilation, and present the views of 
several growers on layer and potted 
plants for late summer and fall set- 
ting. 

The illustration represents a nice 
potted plant, ready to be set out in 
late summer. Such can be had of any 
plant nurseryman, and will make strong bearing 
plants the following June. 

A. M. PURDY My experience is, nothing is gained by fall 
planting, considering the extra expense and work. N. Y. 

Potted plants I have not practiced with, but depend on layers 
Sam'l Miller well rooted, and if these are set at any time 
before the middle of October, can bear a fair crop of fruit the 
following year. Mo. 

Laj^er plants, if properly set at a favorable time, do as well 
G. S. Butler as potted, but for dry weather the latter are 
safest. The advantage of fall setting of plants is time gained 
in early spring. Conn. 

Potted plants will only give good results when set out just 
A. W. Slaymaker at the right time or before they have 
become cramped in the pots. Fall planting is not satisfactory 
here. Del. 




SUMMER PI.ANTING. 35 

We get good results from both layer and potted plants. 
T. J. DWYER La3'er plants can be planted with safety in Sep- 
tember, October, and the first half of November. N. Y. 

Potted plants I have given up and do not bother with. 
Geo. Q. Dow Would just as soon have strong layer plants 
such as I grow. N. H. 

I would rather have good layer plants than potted plants at 
H. S. TlMBRELL the same price at a dry time. The roots of a 
potted plant do not go deep enough to get moisture. N. Y. 

I prefer laj'er plants, if to be .set in the fall. Potted plants 
M. A. Thayer are not worth the difference in price. Layer 
grow just as well, and bear just as well. Wis. 

Our seasons are too .short and too cold to practice fall set- 
A. G. Sharp ting, and I want a full season or more to get 
good strong plants. Mass. 

Benj. Buckman Have never set potted plants ; do not believe 
in fall setting here. 111. 

There is nothing but time saved in fall 
setting, and I would not recommend it 
for this section. We do much setting in 
the fall, but it is expensive, and we do it 
E. W. Reid to save time, nothing else 
is gained. Pot grown plants are not 
profitable for fruit growers, they are too 
costly, but are well enough when one 
wants a bed for home use, or to get a set 
for some new variety. O. 

I prefer layer plants, they are more thrifty in my soil than 
potted ones and are sure to live. I never could get much of a 
crop of fruit from fall set. After the first frost, plants will not 
Geo. F. Beede grow much ; this often happens in Septem- 
ber. A few varieties will bear about one-fourth of a full crop 
and plants are ju.st up for next season as much as spring set 
plants. N. H. 

R. D. McGeehan Potted plants and fall setting do not pay. 
Have quit it entirely. la. 




36 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

I do not consider potted plants any better than la3'er. If 
J. G. Buchanan not planted exactly at the right time they 
are worthless. O. 

J. H. Hale We have put little faith in potted plants and fall 
setting on a large scale. It can be done in a small way. Conn. 



Summary Remarks. 

Very interesting details of the best method of 
summer planting have already been given by Mr. 
Adams, and I especially direct yonr attention to his 
plan for obtaining early layer plants discvissed therein. 
It is interesting to note that many of the experts con- 
demn potted plants and say they have better results 
with layers for fall planting. If one wishes to test 
new varieties that were not obtainable the spring 
before, he may be wise in buying plants in the fall 
but not for growing fruit for market. 

Matthew Crawford says, that the soil for fall set 
plants should be rich, so that their roots may find 
what they need near by, for they have not time to go 
far after it. It is well to prepare the plat a week or 
two in advance, so as to let the ground get settled. 
And it is very important that the crown of the plant 
should not be covered. 

If it is desired to test a new variety, the fall is the 
best time to plant it, for the reason that it will bear the 
next season, and enable one to decide as to its value 
and give ample time to greatly increase the stock. 

The later the work is done the closer should plants 
be set to each other, so that they may fill the row 



SUMMER PLANTING. 37 

with roots and shade the surface with their leaves. If 
set twelve inches apart in the row in July, ten inches 
will be enough in August, eight in September, and 
six in October. The sun should never be allowed to 
shine on bare ground between plants in the row dur- 
ing the winter or early spring. 

Southern people who wish to buy northern grown 
plants should do it late in the fall. The}^ cannot get 
them early enough in the spring, and their summer 
and early fall are too hot for plants grown in the north. 




CHAPTER X. 

SAVING I.ABOR. 



Never let the weeds get a start. — Tim. 

NOT only does it take brain work to grow straw- 
berries successfully, but it requires hand work 
as well. But in this, as in most operations of 
the farm, the brains can save the hands a heap of 




Planet Jr. Horse Cultivator at work 

drudger}^. Any one who does not possess a well- 
organized brain had better not undertake berry culture, 



SAVING r.ABOR. 



39 




Planet Jr. Narrow Tooth Cultivator 



for he will have so much to do with his hands in 
order to obtain a compensatory crop, that his efforts 

will most likely re- 
sult in failure. He 
will soon become dis- 
gusted and declare 
that it does not pay 
to bother with grow- 
ing strawberries. It 
is not much bother 
to the one who has a 
good share of gump- 
tion, a little spunk, 
was not born tired, 
and has a genuine love for the fruit after it is grown. 
It will be noted that the Planet Jr. narrow twelve 
tooth Cultivator is generally approved as the correct 
implement in the strawberry bed; nothing could be 
better ; nothing else so good ; so I have taken pains to 
give it here and to show the clean rows it leaves behind. 
The teeth are all adjustable 
and those nearest the row 
may be turned backward, en- 
abling the user to run shallow 
and avoid tearing the roots of 
the plants; every berry grower 
must have this tool. I also 
show another essential imple- 
ment for those who have only 
a garden bed, this is made by the Allen firm and is 
called the two wheel hand cultivator. By pushing this 
along the rows frequently all weeds are kept down, 
the ground kept mellow, and hand hoeing lessened. 




Two Wheel Hand 
Cultivator 



40 



BIGGI^E BERRV BOOK. 



Again I call ou our good friends to tell tis how to 
save hand hoeing in strawberry culture, and how the 
heavy end of the labor can be done by horse power. 

DestroN- as manj' weeds as possible the 
year before after the potato crop. Culti- 
vate close aud shallow both wa5^s until the 
runners are set and then only one way. 
W. W. FarnswORTH Use Planet Jr. 
with sweeps one time and scraping shovels 
to scrape away from the plants the next 
time, and harrow often to prevent the 
weeds getting too large. O. 

On my soil it is not possible to dis- 
pense with hand hoeing. The Planet Jr. 
Eugene Willett Cultivator and a light thin bladed hoe in the 
hands of an active man are the surest, safest, and, in the end, 
quickest way I have ever found. N. Y. 

I never could get along without con- 
siderable hand hoeing. For cleaning out 
old beds I use Boss Plow that has a mold- 
board about as large as one's hand, which 
H. S. TiMBRELL leaves the ground level 
and all the rubbish on top, and I use a fine 
tooth cultivator which cleans them out of 
the row which will have to be hand hoed. 

N. Y.' 




^AR^S•U ORTH 



W, C. Wilson Planet Jr. Cultivator and 
Horse Harrow supplemented by hand hoe. 

111. 




TIMBRELL 



The best way to save hand hoeing is to use cultivators every 
T. J. Dwyer ten days or so. A careftil, man, steady horse and 
proper tools are very essential requirements in the cai^e of straw- 
berries. We use the Planet Jr. Cultivator. N, Y. 



George Q. Dow Use a fine tooth cultivator, 
people make one with lots of fine teeth. 



The Planet Jr. 
N. H. 



M. A. Thayer Cultivate strawberries both ways just after set- 
ting and continue until time to set runners. Wis. 



PI^ATK I. 




BUBACH 



DAYTON 



PIvATK II. 




(iRKKNVIlj.K 



SAVING LABOR. 



41 




To save hand hoeing, plant in rows that are s% x 2% or 2^ 
feet and cultivate both vi^ays until plants commence to make 
W. F. Allen, Jr. considerable runners and then cultivate only 
the wide way. By this method only one or two hoeiugs will be 
necessary. Md. 

Use Planet Jr. eleven tooth Harrow- 
Cultivator, teeth fine ', does not throw dirt 
A G. Sharp on the plant and can be 
1 un very close This harrow is changeable 
m width and can be changed while in 
motion. . Mass. 



Plant in rows four feet apart. As fast 

as the runners are large enough to take 

root let them run in the rows to the right 

and left so as to stand in a narrow line, 

A. G. SHARP A. I. Root then you can get close up 

to the plant with the cultivator. I do not know of any tools 

better than the Planet Jr. fine tooth ; this can be run close up to 

the plant and not injure the leaves. O. 

Cultivating .should be done soon after rains when the ground 
is soft. A special trowel for setting plants like a mason's trowel, 
George F. Beede wider and full at the point with extra large 
handle is the best tool for setting. A toothed Sunnj'side hoe is 
the tool for hand work. I enclose cut of trowel. N. H. 



I am prejudiced in favor of the good 
old hand hoeing. Absolutely clean cul- 
ture is not possible without it. By mark- 
Edw. W. Cone ing ground as for corn 
and planting so as to admit of cultiva- 
tion both ways, hand work may be 
lessened considerably. Wis 

Early runners make the best plants , 
Geo. J. Kellogg cut oflT the late 
runners. Wis 




EDW W CONE 



We use one heavy fine tooth cultivator and a lighter one 
Horace J. Smith with fourteen teeth. There will be still 
some hoeing to do as well as weeding, which later, as well as 
the setting of runners, we do with a crew of small boys. Wis. 



42 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK, 

Benj. Buckman Cultivators should have many teeth and run 
shallow. 111. 

Wm. Jackson I plant in check rows and use Planet Jr. Culti- 
vator, running both ways, as long in the summer as I can. 111. 
The best tool to save hand hoeing is the Planet Jr. Horse 
Wm. Hoover Cultivator. We use one and a quarter inch 
steels and can cultivate within one inch of the row. Col. 

J. R. Hawkins The best hand hoe is made about two and a 
half or three inches wide, attached to an ordinary handle. N. Y. 

Remarks. 

When I go out to work in the berry patch after 
Allen's Cultivator has done all it can, I take a hoe like 
this, and am sure to keep it sharp. 
The blade is three inches wide. I 
generally work this by proxy and 
find it easier that way and more effective. 

Here you have it : Plant in rows both ways ; use 
Planet Jr. Cultivator, going over the ground once a 
week, killing weeds when they are young ; get the 
ground free from weed seeds by previous clean culti- 
vation in hoed crops ; apply no fresh manure contain- 
ing weed seeds. After the runners are spotted out in 
July and August, use hand hoe among the plants when 
necessary, keep the ground mellow, and let no weeds 
get a start ; give abundant space to each plant, and 
fertilize liberally, so you will not have small berries to 
pick. 

When the runners begin to grow in June or July, 
the first ones should be cut off, so as to allow the 
plant to acquire strength. I^ater it will send out new 
runners on all sides instead of on one side. 

Attend to these things, and you will find it is not 
such a serious matter to grow plenty of strawberries. 



CHAPTER XI. 



DISTANCE APART, 



Call all plants from late runners zveeds. — Tim. 

I CONSIDER this one of the most important chapters 
in the book, for strawberry culture depends largely 
on the distance the plants stand from each other 
at fruiting time. Most growers have too many plants 
on the ground, which insures small berries, low prices 
for those marketed, much extra labor in picking and 
general failure. It is not so important how closely 
the rows or plants are as first set out, but how thickly 
the plants are allowed to remain in the matted rows is 
an essential consideration, which does not receive the 
attention that it deserves. 





Rows a Month After 
Planting 



Hills at Bearing 



I will illustrate the matted row and hill systems 
of culture. Some growers prefer the wide matted 
row, some the narrow ; some prefer to keep the 
plants in hills, cutting off all runners. For myself 
I like best the wide matted row, for I believe if the 
plants are not allowed to become too thickly matted, 
they do better this way. Strawberries must be shaded 
from the sun, they color better, and hold out better 



44 



BIGGI.E; BERRY BOOK. 



through a hot spell, which is sure to come, and this 
condition is better obtained than in hills or narrow 
rows. 





Wide Matted Rows 



Narrow ^Matted Rows 



Here is what the experts say .about distance apart 
for best results : 

Sam'l Miller Rows three and a half feet apart and the plants 
eighteen inches apart in the rows. Mo. 

Vigorous varieties set four feet and two feet in the row. Set 
Geo. F. Beede well growing varieties fifteen inches in the 
row ; have plants thick or thin, as suits the varietj\ N. H. 

Rows four feet apart and plants two feet apart in the row ; 
A. 1. Root thin before freezing weather. I would thin the 
plants out so they are about six inches apart from centre to 
centie O. 

Three and a half feet is the proper 
distance for the rows, and fifteen inches 
in the rows. Varieties like Michel's 
Wm. D. Barns Early and Crescents, 
that throw out a great many runners, 
should be set six inches further apart 
each way. N. Y. 

Plants should not be closer in the 

H. S. TiMBRELL matted row than six 

WM. D. BARNS ^^ scvcu inchcs at picking time, N. Y. 

The rows should be planted three and a half feet apart, and 

T. J. DWYER the plants in the row should be twelve to fifteen 

inches apart at picking time. The matted row should be from 

twenty to twenty-four inches wide. N. Y. 




DISTANCE APART. 45 

It makes a difference what varieties are planted ; Warfield, 
Crescent, Michel's Early, etc., should be planted not less than 
two feet apart in the row, as a rule ; while kinds that make 
Eugene Willett a slower stand should be much closer, say 
from twelve to eighteen inches. While we formerly planted five 
feet apart, now we plant only four feet, and make the middle 
space narrower. N. Y. 

We put all rows out three feet fovir inches apart every ten 
feet, which can be easily measured and marked by stakes con- 
taining three rows. Had we planted to rich land four feet apart 
might be better, but we think not. The plants might be set the 
same distance apart and have the soil cultivated both ways. On a 
large scale this would be our plan. Should any one prefer to set 
the plants nearer together, as many do, they could be planted 
twenty inches apart, and still be cultivated both ways, or in rows 
by the modern steel frame cultivators. It is a common custom, 
recommended in all books, to run the cultivator through the rows, 
always in the same direction, thus pushing the rows aside and 
massing them together, and for what purpose? To save 
J.W.Adams labor ostensibly. What is the result? A dozen 
or so of unproductive plants to the square foot, stunted in 
growth, in flower and in fruit. At the Field Day Show of the 
late P. M. Augur, two young men sat down and counted more 
than 200 berries on one plant, the fruit being of good size. How 
much space do you think that single plant occupied? Would 
you grudgihgly give that plant a square yard of ground? If 
you would have maximum results select your runners as they 
appear, allot them a space more than a foot square for every 
three or four plants, and then defend them In their lease of land 
against all weeds or runners. Then it has been our practice, as 
soon as the runners well cover the ground, or about October ist, 
to cut out all of the old plants set out in the previous spring. In 
this way we obtain less in number, but much larger berries. 

Mass. 

I believe the best and cheapest way of setting plants is^o 
mark the ground both ways in checks; in hills, three to four feet 
S. W. Gilbert and cultivate both ways. Keep all runners 
off until the plants are well established, and then train the run- 
ners to fill the three foot space. Six inches apart is close enough 
for the plants, and a foot would be better. Mo. 



46 



BIGGIvE BERRY BOOK. 



I set my plants about one foot apart in the rows, and rows 
one foot apart. Only two rows in a bed, alternating the plants 
so as to take up all the space in the tows. I always cultivate 
John F. Beaver the plants in the spring, and in planting 
alternately in the rows, I can cultivate each plant, which will 
make a very material difference in the growth of both foliage 
and fruit. I cut off all runners. O. 

(Mr. Beaver is an amateur grower, who has only a garden 
patch, but is famous for big and beautiful berries, often exhibited 
at his county fair.) 

Geo. W. Elvins We have the beds twelve inches wide, with 
six inches for the growth of each plant. N. J. 

It is better to set the plants rather 
close in the rows, to get a good stand as 
Dr.J.Stayman early in the season as 
possible, and then cut off the late run- 
ners, as they are often blank plants that 
do not fruit. -Kan. 

ROBT. H. GILLIN The plants at pick- 
ing time should be eight to nine inches 
apart. Pa. 

Ben J. M. Smith Plants in matted 
rows should be thinned so they will 
stand eight to ten inches apart at pick- 
ing time. Mass. 




STAYMAN 



Summary Remarks. 
The novice in strawberry culture, and even the 
veteran, may well read this chapter over two or three 
times. The lesson should be learned by heart that 
each plant should have plenty of room to develop 
and perfect its fruit, and that some varieties require 
more than others. I do not believe any sort will do 
its best in less space than fifty square inches, and 
some kinds should have double that. 



DISTANCE APART. 47 

Another lesson which ought to be well studied is 
the importance of obtaining strong plants from, the 
early runners, as advised by Mr. Adams and Dr. Stay- 
man. Some varieties, like the Gandy, bear scarcely 
any fruit at all on feeble plants, while on the early 
started strong ones, they yield quite well. Many have 
discarded this splendid berry, because supposed to be 
a poor yielder, when the whole trouble is as indicated 
above. I would say, set your plants in rows four feet 
apart ; place the plants two feet apart in the rows, and 
let the rows run both ways, so the cultivator can run 
both ways until July ; then spot the runners eight 
inches apart, as they form over a space thirty inches 
wide, and cut off every supernumerary runner after 
the ground is filled. 




CHAPTER XII. 

MUIvCHING. 
Do 7iot rake off the mulch in the springs loosen it up. — Tim. 

THE importance of mulching is becoming better 
understood than formerly, and the work is done 
with more thoroughness. The advantages from 
it are well set forth below. 

A. M. PuRDY Doubles the crop. N. Y. 

Mulching- is almost indispensable, and with underdraining 
Samuel Miller and facilities to irrigate, strawberry growing 
successfully hardly can fail. Mo. 

Underdraining adds much. It retains moisture and admits 
E. W. Reid air from below that makes it much better for 
working. O. 

A. G. Sharp Mulching keeps fruit clean and helps to carry 
through drought. Mass. 

I have never seen any advantages here 
from mulching. I have tried straw but 
got less berries where I used it and not 
Charles Wright half so good, either. 
Wet ground should certainly be under- 
drained. Moisture is always essential for 
strawberries. Del. 

A. P. Sampson We have to winter 
mulch and use meadow hay. Mass. 



We mulch in the fall after the ground 

CHARLES WRIGHT _ ^^ . ^. j r <.,. 

freezes. It keeps the ground from thaw- 
ing in the hot svm and prevents heaving or wintering out. It 
H. S. TlMBRELL keeps the foliage green and fresh, and a 
heavy mulch during the picking season keeps down weeds and 
the berries clean from sand and dirt, also keeps the pickers 
clean, helps hold moisture in a dry time, and answers for manure 
when plowed under. N. Y. 




MULCHING. 49 

The advantages of mulching are that when applied at the 
beginning of winter it prevents the plants being drawn up by 
the frost, disturbing and breaking the roots. If left on late in 
J. W. Adams the spring it helps to escape frost while the 
plants are in bloom, and it also retards ripening of the berries. 
When renewed in the spring it keeps down weeds, and the fruit 
from sand and dirt. Mass. 

Mulching is absolutely necessary at 
the north for winter protection. Some 
varieties, such as Parker Karle, absolutely 
need four inches of well rotted manure, 
George J. Kellogg covering the en- 
tire space between the rows to protect 
them from drought and feed the enormous 
burden of fruit, and the same treatment 
will pay on all varieties. Wis 

Without mulching, the bed becomes 

„ „ r, 4-^ 1.1 ^ ^-L. GEORGE J KELLOGG 

Z.T.Russell thoroughly set with ■' 

weeds and grasses, and is ruined by a few days' drought. Mo. 




Summary Remarks. 

I have but little to add to the above arguments in 
favor of careful mulching. Early winter is the best 
time to do the work, after the ground becomes hard 
enough to bear a team. Swamp hay, straw and cut 
corn fodder are all good materials for the purpose, but 
the best thing is well fermented and rotted horse 
manure. The plants should always be covered up 
clear out of sight during the winter, and in the spring 
the mulch should be retained around the plants, but 
not directly on them. A heavy mulch left on late in 
the spring insures late berries. The plants must have 
some vent if covered deeply after the weather warms 
up, but do not rake the mulch off the row. 



50 



BIGGI^K BERRY BOOK. 



It is somewhat remarkable that a close cover like 
a leaf of a turnip, put upon a plant, will surely finish 
it, but a pint of sand wdll do it no harm. The moral 
is to have a loose mulch for the strawberry bed. 

Spring cultivation is a delusion and a snare. Keep 
the ground moist and mellow by a suitable mulch, 
not by cultivation. 

Taking the mulch off too soon is a fruitful cause 
of injury from frost. 

For a late crop of late berries four inches are not 
too deep for the mulch. 




A THIMBLEFUL 



CHAPTER XIII. 

UNDKRDRAINING AND IRRIGATION. 

Too much ivater in the soil is as bad as too little. — Tim. 

THE Strawberry is such a thirsty plant when it is 
loaded with fruit, that ample provision should 
be made to give the bed all it can use of water. 
In ordinary seasons on some soils this can be done by 
thorough mulching, retaining the moisture provided 
by spring thaws and rains throughout the fruiting 
season ; but in dry weather the crop is often shortened 
through lack of (water unless underdraining or irriga- 
tion, or both, are resorted to. Underdraining is 
needed on all soils with a hard clay bottom, whether 
the season be wet or dry, and a bed should never be 
set in such a soil without underdraining, as failure, par- 
tial or complete, will result if the season be either very 
wet or very dry. Underdraining will double the crop. 
Irrigation is not practicable on ordinary farms, but 
when a bed can be planted near a stream or pond 
that will yield an abundant supply of water it has been 
found advantageous to irrigate, which will largely 
increase the crop and greatly lengthen the bearing 
season. 

E. G. TiCE Underdraining makes a larger and much better 
crop. N. Y. 

Underdraining by first drawing off the surplus water encour- 
ages the plants to make a much deeper penetration of the soil with. 
Horace J. Smith their roots, which is an immense aid to 
the production of fine large berries during a critical time in the 
life of the plants. Wis. 



52 BIGGI^K BERRY BOOK. 

Strawberries require an immense amount of water to achieve 
Edwin Beekman perfection, hence the advantage of low 
lands well ditched. The ditches can be stopped so the beds can 
be flooded at night. N. J. 

Underdraining renders the soil loose and protects against 
Andrew WiLLSON wet and dry weather. Irrigation is rarely 
needed when the ground is underdrained and mulched. O. 

Benj. Buckman Underdraining is valuable on all ground in 
some seasons and on wet ground in all seasons. 111. 

We have practiced irrigation for raising plants but not for 
A. I. Root fruit. For filling orders for fruit promptly in 
summer we find irrigation a necessity. O. 

A.G.Sharp Underdraining lightens a heavy soil. Mass. 

All fruit land must be underdrained either naturally or 
artificially. When the subsoil is porous gravel or sand the 
Wm. D. Barns natural drainage is complete. A clay or hard 
subsoil should be underdrained before a crop of strawberries 
can be grown with any certainty. N. Y. 

W. C. Wilson I believe that underdraining pays on any soil 
except a very dry sandy one. 111. 

Underdraining lightens a heavy wet soil, keeps it from bak- 
ing, makes it more porous with a better circulation of air 
through it, draws off all stagnant water, which some varieties 
H. S. TiMBRELL of strawberries will not stand at all. The 
Crescent and Manchester die on a heavy, wet clay soil, and 
also others of the same strain, but such as the Sharpless, Tim- 
brell, etc., may thrive on it and produce large crops. N. Y. 

Underdrainage is a great benefit to any wet soil, and some 
lands not called wet would be greatly helped. Heavy land is 
Eugene Willett kept more pliable by lessening the chance 
of its baking after a heavy rain. It is sooner worked and easier 
kept tilled. N. Y. 

No use to try to grow berries profitably without under- 
W. W. Farnsworth draining unless the soil be naturally 
well drained. O. 



UNDERDRAINING AND IRRIGATION. 53 

Underdraining is conducive to health, growth, and moistens 
heavy soil for various reasons. It removes stagnant or muddy 
water and thus warms the soil, which is very important. All 
rains which fall then pass through the soil. The stagnant 
water having been drawn out, the land is capable of receiving 
and retaining for the use of plants as much water as will fall in 
ordinary showers. Irrigation is beneficial in many ways, but 
J. W. Adams especially so when the fruit is swelling, for the 
strawberry loves moisture, and cannot perfect its fruit without 
it. How and where to apply it has caused many doubts. We 
have usually let it rvm between rows on the surface, our land 
being neither level nor steep. Water runs a long distance with- 
out soaking away too soon and without washing. We have 
never tried plowing a light furrow and laying small under- 
ground tiles, but the plan seems feasible for steep side hills, and 
not too expensive to be profitable. Mass. 

Strawberries want water ; more of it than they are likely to 
get. Irrigation makes big berries out of what otherwise might 
be little ones, or helps to make the last picking almost as 
fine as the first. It makes big, showy berries, and also makes 
J. H. Hale them with less color, soft in texture and not so 
good in quality as without it ; and it is a sight niore satisfactory 
to sell water in the strawberry than in milk, especially after it has 
been drained from the cow. Conn. 



Remarks. 

I said in the beginning of this chapter that in stiff 
clay soils underdraining will double the crop, and I wish 
to emphasize the statement by repeating it here ; but 
it is without the compass of this book to describe 
methods of underdraining, and I refer the reader to a 
capital little work on the subject, written by W. I, 
Chamberlain, and published by A. I. Root, of Medina, 
Ohio.* 

*The price of this excellent work, paper binding, sent by 
mail, is forty cents, and it can be ordered through the Farm 
Journal. W. A. Co. 



54 



BIGGLK BERRY BOOK. 



I may add that I am strongly impressed with the 
merits of the ditching plow made by the Larimer 
Ditching Plow Co., of Crabtree, Pa., so much so that 
I shall use one this fall. Shown here. If we under- 
drain we must save cost as much as possible, and this 
tool ought to do it. 




Ditching Plow 



CHAPTER XIV. 

STAMINATES AND PISTII^I^ATES. 
(Perfect aud Imperfect.) 




Be sure to provide plenty of pollen. — Tim. 

THESE terms are now well understood by others 
than novices in strawberry culture, but begin- 
ners may need to be told that the staminate 
plants are those which carry their own pollen, 
and are, therefore, called per- 
fect flowering, while blossoms 
of pistillates contain no pollen, 
are imperfect flowering, and, 
therefore, require the aid of a 
staminate variety before they will 
produce fruit. A strong staminate 
bloss om is 
Fig I shown in Fig. 

I, a pistillate in Fig. 2, while a 
feeble staminate is indicated in Fig. 
3, which has a few stamens only, and 
they not fully developed. The 
Haverland, 
and some 

others recognized as pistillate 

sorts, have a few stamens, and 

furnish sufficient pollen for self- 

pollenization, under favorable 

conditions ; and such kinds are 

^^" ^ usually more prolific of fair fruit 

than pistillates which are entirely devoid of stamens. 

Staminates can be grown in a bed by themselves, and 





Fig 2 



56 BIGGLE BERRY BOOK. 

will bear fruit ; pistillates are fruitless, unless they 
have staminates nearby to fructify them. The neces- 
sary pollen is carried from staminates to pistillates by 
the aid of the wind and of bees, and rainy weather in 
blossoming time is apt to interfere with the distribu- 
tion of pollen, and cause an imperfect crop of fruit, 
in which many specimens are shortened at the apex, 
small and ill-formed. Wet weather likewise inter- 
rupts the perfect development of fruit on staminate 
varieties, but to less extent than on pistillates. 

It is a question often discussed among berry grower^:, 
whether it is best to discard the imperfect flowering- 
varieties entirely, owing to the inconvenience of 
always having to plant a suitable pollenizer near them ; 
and I have asked the opinions of the experts on the 
subject, and also what proportions of the two kinds 
should be planted together. 

The imperfect will never be discarded. They are most pro- 
ductive, yet we find the most of them soft and only good for 
home market. One great point in favor of imperfect is, they are 
less liable to be killed by late frosts. I would always have one- 
E. W. Reid third of the perfect blooming varieties, but would 
have them of two varieties, one to be an early bloomer, and the 
other a late. This makes a fine change in the size of the fruit 
of the imperfect at the last of the season. They are not so apt 
to run irregular or knotty. O. 

No ; pistillates properly pollenized are better. The produc- 
Geo. J. Kellogg tion of pollen seems to weaken the perfect 
flowering kinds. Two rows of perfect and two rows of pistil- 
lates are better than any less proportion. Wis. 

The staminates vary in the amountof pollen produced, and 
Edw. W. Cone some varieties are more strictly pistillates 
than others so-called, and lequire an abundant and close polleni- 
zation. Wis. 



PLATE III. 



PEARI. 




HAVERI.AND 



pIvATb; IV. 




SAUNDKRS 



WARFI^I,D 



STAMINATES AND PISTII,I,ATES. 57 

Andrew Willson No; every third row should be stamiuate. 
Some of the very best are imperfect flowering. O. 

No staminates that I know of are heavy croppers, unless it 
Benj. Buckman may be Parker Karle. Proportion varies, 
say four rows H. and two rows P. 111. 

Imperfect varieties are somewhat of a nuisance, but cannot 
A. I. Root be discarded, especially such varieties as Bubach, 
Haverland and Warfield, and some others, until we find some 
other varieties that will give the same results in berries. O. 

By all means, as it is a nuisance to have to plant a staminate 
A. G. Sharp to every third or fourth row, as is now necessary 
with these imperfect flowering varieties. Mass. 

H. S. TiMBRELL I think not ; as the imperfect are, as a rule, 
the most productive. N. Y. 

J. R. Hawkins I am not in favor of using imperfect flowering 
varieties. N. Y. 

In planting both kinds equally valuable, I would plant in 
alternate rows. When one variety is most valuable, then plant 
J. H. Hale two to one. Have sometimes planted three to five 
rows imperfect, to one of perfect, and found it all right if dry 
weather prevails at planting time, but more or less of a failure 
if rains come when plants are in bloom. Conn. 

I think we are soon coming to the time when imperfect 
G. F. Wheeler flowering varieties will be discarded. The 
introduction of a few more staminate kinds will make it impos- 
sible to introduce anything but a perfect flowering variety. 

Mass. 

Many growers of plants say, " Give me perfect blooming 
plants, I do not want the setting of so many kinds." Not so the 
experienced grower, for he has learned that the pistillates are 
the ones from which his baskets are filled, and his pockets 
J. W. Adams replenished. It is j^et a disputed point what 
proportion of flowering plants to be used. We recollect one 
excellent crop from pistillate varieties with no other sorts within 
one hundred feet of them. We have now settled on one stereo- 
typed rule of three of pistillates t^ one of staminates. Mass. 



58 BIGGLE BERRY BOOK. 

Not yet. There is no variety among the staminate kinds 
Eugene WiLLETT that will yield quite what pistillates do. We 
usually plant two of staminate to four of pistillate. N. Y. 

Benj. M. Smith I do believe it is best to discard, as far as 
possible, imperfect flowering varieties. Mass. 

One thing I have observed that I have never seen in print, is 
E. M. BuECHLY that the pistillate berries are more hardy in 
spring frosts thf.n the staminate sorts. O. 



Summary Remarks. 

These answers cover the ground admirably. Two of 
them call attention to the fact that early spring frosts 
are more apt to injure the staminate blossoms than 
the pistillates, and I know this is correct. The Sharp- 
less, which is a staminate, is most liable of any to be 
frost bitten and ought to be discarded, or at least, 
planted sparingly. Some varieties, notably Haver- 
land, which is considered a pistillate, have some pollen 
of their own, and require less care in planting a stami- 
nate variety near them ; in fact, the Haverland will 
almost fertilize itself. There are other pistillates with 
similar capacity, especially in favorable seasons. 

Ordinarily, I think it best to plant one row of stami- 
nates to two of pistillates, or better still, perhaps, 
plant each in alternate rows. 

Care must be taken that the pollenizer be a sort 
that will bloom abundantly, and early and late, so that 
the adjacent pistillate blossoms may receive pollen 
throughout the blossoming period. For this some 
varieties of staminates are much better than others, 
some are quite inadequate. It is important, also, that 



STAMINATES AND PISTILLATES. 59 

the staminates and pistillatcs to go together shouJd 
be selected so that the fruit will ripen at the same 
time, and that it be nearly the same shape and color, so 
that it can be picked and sent to market in the same 
crate. It requires skill to do this, but it will repay 
careful study. For instance, the Pearl or Parker Earle 
is well adapted to fertilize the Haverland, being of 
the same form and ripening nearly enough at the same 
time. It is probable that every desirable pistillate sort 
has a good friend among the staminates that it should 
be married to in preference to the others, and the 
wide-aw'ake berryman will look sharp that his varieties 
be well mated. 

A pistillate variety will vary quite perceptibl}^ when 
fertilized by different perfect varieties ; so, if j^ou 
want firmness, you should fertilize with a firm berry ; 
if sweetness is wanted, fertilize with a sweet one ; if 
dark color is wanted, fertilize wdth a dark one. In 
fact, whatever peculiarity you wish to transmit to the 
pistillate variety, seek it in the perfect variety you 
would fertilize by. Staminates affect the size, color, 
solidity, shape and quality of pistillates. Make a 
stud}' of which varieties planted together bring the 
best results. 

The honey bee wdll visit 10,000 strawberry blossoms 
m a single day. 




6o 



BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 




BOUQUET OF SAUNDERS 

With Complimentsof Tim's Wife 



Showing one plant of Saunders, and berries which grew thereon, 

taken from our patch after one picking. Saunders is 

remarkable for vigor of plant, size and beauty 

of berry, and extreme productiveness 



PLATE V 



EDGAR QUEEN 




EDGAR QUEEN 



PLATE VI. 




BARTON'S ECLIPSE 



CHAPTER XV. 



TEN VARIETIES OF ESTABUSHED MERIT. 



^ Tis easy to go further and fair worse. — Tim. 

ISHAi,!, uot undertake to describe all the varieties 
of strawberries now before the public. I shall 
not describe any which arc likely to be soon dis- 
Ciirded, owing to some fault or lack of positive merit. 
For one thing, I do not possess the facility of 
language, or the elasticity of conscience that will 
induce or enable me to bestow superlative praise 
upon a hundred different varieties. I have found it 
very difficult to decide how best to present the ques- 
tion of varieties, since there are so many with such 
varying merits and faults in different localities, and 
under different conditions, and opinions of growers 
vary so much ; but I have concluded to first present 
a standard list, consisting of ten sorts of established 
merit, such as have been well tested in all parts of 
the counti-y, and which have proven to be worthy of 
trial, and which are pretty sure to give a good account 
of themselves under fair conditions of soil, climate 
and culture. Some of them, like the Crescent, are 
supposed to have run out, and others, as the Parker 
Earle, are not free from faults ; (did 3^011 ever know a 
variety free from faults?) yet I consider the ten 
named, all things considered, the best ten to be found 
among all the varieties now before the public. 



62 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK, 

In this list please observe that the staminate, or 
perfect flowering, are in large type ; and the pistil- 
lates, or imperfect, are in small type. 

BuBACH.— The foliage of the Bubach is of medium green 
color, the plant vigorous and healthy ; productive of very large, 
roundish, conical berries ; man}' of them obtuse conical. Color, 
dull scarlet; flesh, pink. It has been before the public for 
several years, maintaining a high reputation in nearly every 
part of the country. An abundance of manure will cause it to 
run to vines. It does well in rather poor soil, whe: : no other 
kind will flourish. It is rather soft for shipm x to a dis- 
tant market, but for nearby market it is amor 3 the very best. 
Cumberland is a good variety to fertilize it with. Bubach is 
undoubtedly one of the most valuable and popular varieties ever 
used. It receives more votes than any other from the experts. 
vShown on colored Plate I. 

Greenvillk. — This is a fine, large berry ; considered by some 
an improvement on the Bubach, ripening a few days later. It is 
very productive. It is not firm enough for long shipments, but 
the plant is free from disease ; berry of fine appearance and good 
quality. The foliage is strong, dark green ; the berries are a 
glossy crimson, with bright yellow seeds; flesh, medium red. 
Kach plant throws up several fruit stalks, and the berries on 
each one of them ripen at the same time. Rich, spic}^ flavor. 
I commend this for general trial for a market or home fruit. 
Season, medium to late. Shown in colored Plate II. 

Haverland. — The plant is thrifty, of medium green foliage. 
Sets plants freely, but not too much so. Productive of long, 
conical berries, of scarlet color, with some neck. Yellow seeds ; 
pink flesh, of not very high flavor. Under favorable conditions 
it is enormously productive of very attractive, salable berries, 
which ripen all over. They grow on long stems, which lie on 
the ground, and if rains come at ripening, followed by hot sun, 
are liable to rot. It is hard to say too much for the Haverland 
as a market berry ; it gives us berries moderately early, and 
holds out well until the last. The Lovett is a good variety to 
fertilize it, but it has some pollen of its own, and some seasons 
will nearly fertilize itself. Shown on colored Plate III. 



TEN VARIETIES OF ESTABI^ISHED MERIT. 



63 



Saunders. — This is a grand berry. Originated 
with John Little, of Ontario, Canada. The plant is 
healthy and very vigorous, as much so as the Haver- 
land. The berries are very large, glossy crimson, of 
good quality, with bright yellow seeds and red flesh. 
It yields immensely under fair conditions, of very 
salable berries of solidity to market well. It sets 
fruit almost as freely as Parker Barle, but, unlike that 
variety, is able to carry to maturity all the berries that 
form. Elsewhere is shown a group of Saunders, all 
taken from one plant from my own patch. Shown 
also in colored Plate IV. 

Parker Earle. — Plant, robust, strong and healthy, 
with many crowns ; wonderfully productive of conical, 
medium sized berries, with slight neck ; of rich, 
glossy scarlet crimson, red flesh, sub-acid, and indif- 
ferent in flavor. Sets usually more berries than it can 




PARKER EARLE 

A splendid late berrj', but the plant tries to do too much and 
sometimes fails 



64 BIGGI.K BERRY BOOK. 

bring to maturity or ripen, and the plant suffers in 
consequence, and is ruined in dry seasons. Irrigation 
would probably bring out its good qualities. It is a 
good shipper ; season late. It should be grown in 
rich, moist ground. Shown in colored Plate VII. 

lyOVKTT. — Very vigorous plant ; rich, dark glossy 
foliage. Very productive of medium sized roundish 
conical, crimson berries, seldom ill-shaped, with light 
red flesh. Some specimens quite dark red all the way 
through. . Sub-acid without much flavor. Larger 
and more productive than the Crescent. It is an 
excellent pollenizer, furnishing bloom through the 
season. Hale says it does better in loam or clay than 
in sandy ground. Shown in colored Plate VI. 

Warfield. — A very valuable market berry, though rather 
tart for home eating. The plant is small and of fragile appear- 
ance, but makes a thick matted bed, and bears abundantly. 
Exceedingly productive, of dark, glossy-red berries, with yellow 
seeds, which carry well to market and sell well. It is a strong 
rival of the Crescent, and has superseded it with many growers. 
Shown on colored Plate IV. 

Crescent. — The most prolific and best known of straw- 
berries. Thought by .some to have run out, but will hold on 
while a good many new ones die. The plant is light and 
slender, but healthy and vigorous. The berries are rather small, 
roundish conical, slightly depressed at apex, of dull scarlet 
color ; light flesh ; sub-acid, with spicy flavor ; season, early to 
late. It is often called the poor man's berrj^, because it is sure 
to yield fruit under adverse conditions. Shown in colored 
Plate V. 

Gandy. — This is one of the best varieties ever 
introduced. The plant is large and healthy, and 
vigorous, with thick, dark green foliage, bearing very 
large, roundish conical, solid red, finely-formed berries 



TEN VARIETIES OF ESTABLISHED MERIT. 



65 



There is no finer berry to carry to a distant market 
than the Gandy, and none presents a finer appearance. 
It is not only large, but uniform in size, perfect in 
shape and color, and ripens evenly. In color it is a 
dark crimson, the flesh pale salmon. The plant must 
have an early start in the spring to produce a full crop 
the next season. A group of Gandys, all grown on one 
plant, is shown opposite the title page of this book. 
Muskingum. — A small, fairly vigorous plant, a 
little slow to start, of medium green foliage. Very 
productive of globular, dull scarlet berries, of medium 
size, with firm red flesh and of superior flavor. A good 
table berry, but a little tart. I believe the Muskingum 
has come to stay, and therefore recommend it for gen- 
eral trial. Shown in colored Plate VIII, and also engrav- 
ing. Of the above.five are staminates and five pistillates. 




GROUP OF MUSKINGUMS 
A variety of great merit 



66 



BIGGLE BHRRY BOOK. 




SOME POPULAR BERRIES 



1 Saunders 

2 I^eader 

3 I^adj' Rusk 

4 Manchester 

5 Warfield 



6 Van Demau 

7 Jessie 

8 Edgar Queen 

9 Parker Earle 
10 Bubach 



11 vSplendid 

12 Wilson 

13 Beverly 

14 Iguotum 

15 Windsor Chief 



CHAPTER XVI. 

TEN OTHER GOOD VARIETIES. 

The best is none too good for us. — Tim. 

UNDER this head I could make a very extended 
list, but will again select ten sorts that in my 
judgment are most worthy ; but it must not be 
understood that all others are condemned. Varieties 
not mentioned here doubtless have great merit in 
some localities, and under special conditions that suit 
them, but I deem it best to confine myself to a short 
list to prevent confusion and uncertainty in the minds 
of many beginners in berry culture who will consult 
this book. As in the previous chapter, staminates 
will be in large type and pistillates in small type. 

PEAri,. — A vigorous grower ; fruit firm, of fine 
form and color, like Parker Barle and Haverland, but 
of better quality, and is a good cropper ; for a market 
not too distant it is excellent ; and I know of no 
better home berry. Shown in colored Plate III, and 
in engraving of a box filled with fruit on page 25. 

JucuNDA Improved. — Old strawberry cultivators 
do not need to be told that the Jucunda was one of 
the UTOst beautiful and delicious of strawberries, and 
that it would only succeed in a few exceptional places. 
Jucunda Improved seems to possess all the good 
qualities of the original, while it succeeds on almost 
any good soil. Foliage strong and healthy ; berries 
conical and very regular ; color, brilliant crimson ; 
flesh firm, good shipper. For family use or fancy mar- 
ket it is recommended. Shown in colored Plate XI. 



6S 



BIGGLE BERRY BOOF. 



Crawford. — Another of John Little's berries. It 
is a hear];-, stocky-growing plant, with broad, leatherv. 
dark green foliage, moderately productiTe of Ter\- 
large. roundish conical berries, glossy crimson, with 
bright yellow seeds, light flesh and good quality ; not so 
valuable as the Saunders to grow for market because 
less proline, but excellent for the amateur garden. 
See engravine. 




A FrLL GROWX CRA^VFORD 



Edgar Otteex. — A vigorous, thriity plant, with broad, heavy- 
leaves, pale green in color ; very productive of large, roundish, 
obtuse conical berries ; bright scarlet : white flesh of fair quality. 
Shown in colored Plate V. 



PLATE VII. 





PARKER EARIvE 




BRANDYWINE 



PIRATE VIII. 




MUSKINGUM 



TEN OTHER GOOD VARIETIES. 



69 



Beder Wood. — Moderately thrifty growing plant 
of Crescent type; very productive of medium, round- 
ish, dull scarlet berries, with white flesh ; moderately 
firm ; sweet but insipid. Seems to give fair satisfaction 
where tried, but I would not plant it for market. 
Shown on colored Plate X. 




DISH OF BEDER WOODS 

Hard to Beat 

BEVERI.Y. — A vigorous, upright grower with heavy 
foliage of the Miner type ; medium green ; very pro- 
ductive ; large, irregular, roundish or obtuse conical 
berries, red color, similar to Miner ; deep crimson- 
white flesh and good quality, although somewhat acid 
and not firm ; bears a long time, holding out well. 
Shown on colored Plate IX. 

Seuster's Gem. — Medium growing plant, moderately pro- 
ductive of medium sized, conical, dull scarlet berries, with 
white flesh similar to the Haverland, very rich and sweet, 
but not solid enough for distant market. Season early to 
medium. Shown on colored Plate X. 



70 BIGGIvK BERRY BOOK. 

L/KADER. — Heavy, broad foliage, light green in 
color, productive of obtuse, conical berries, firm and of 
best quality. Early. Recommended as a promising, 
large, early berry, best adapted to rich, moist clay soil. 
Shown on colored Plate VIII. 

Iowa Beauty. — Very strong, thrifty plant ; glossy, 
dark green foliage ; very productive of large, roundish, 
conical berries, of rich, glossy scarlet color ; surface 
of man}' berries looks as if coated with a thick coat 
of varnish ; seeds bright yellow ; very attractive in 
appearance. 

Cumberland. — This is a fine old variety, one of 
the best for the home garden and good for near mar- 
ket. The plant is healthy and vigorous, and berries 
are a beautiful light red, of high quality, round, and 
very uniform in shape. A good pollenizer for pistil- 
late sorts, and does well on poor soils ; season medium. 

ADDITIONAI, NOTES ON VARIETIES. 

Barton's Eci^ipse. — Growth, rank ;, foliage, light 
green; leaf stalks, long and stiff ; leaves, large ; fruit, 
large to very large, conical, rounding in large speci- 
mens ; dark red, showy, medium firm ; quality, fine ; 
a fairly good market berr}?-, though hardly of sufficient 
merit to warrant its showing on colored Plate VI. 

GlendaIvE. — A fine old berry that seems to have 
lost ground in public estimation, probably through 
neglect and careless culture. It is late, prolific, fair 
size, and if well grown, sells well. Whoever needs a 
late market berr}' should give it a trial. Shown on 
colored Plate i:K. 



TEN OTHER GOOD VARIETIES. 



71 



Fei^TON. — Of rank growth ; somewhat of vSharpless 
type ; good bearer of very large, soft berries, not 
suitable for market ; not recommended except to give 
the family some prize berries. Shown in engraving 
of four berries in a tumbler ; or, trying to get in. 




A NOTABLE QUARTETTE 

Too big for this tumbler 

BEI.MONT. — This is certainly one of the best ama- 
teur berries ever grown in Massachusetts ; needs rich, 
jmoist soil and good culture. A well-grown Belmont is 
one of the best looking, best eating and best selling 
berries known. 



72 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

MiCHEiv'S Eari<y. — One of the earliest varieties 
grown. The plant is a very robust grower, strong and 
healthy, although plant is rather small ; one of the 
best of the early pollenizers, as it blossoms early and 
late. Moderately productive of uniform, small sized 
berries of good quality ; flesh, soft, nearly white ; 
roundish conical, dull scarlet in color. 

Jessie. — A good pollenizer for Bubach and Haver- 
land. The strong points of the Jessie, according to 
A. I. Root, are that it is exceedingly early, of large 
size, and that its red cheeks, reminding one of a ripe 
peach, make it bring the very highest price. The 
berry is sweet and holds on well to the last. Its dis- 
advantages are that if the soil is not just to its liking 
it gets feeble, and does not bear much fruit, and its 
blossoms are likely to be injured by frost. 




PIRATE IX. 




BEVERI.Y 



PIvATE X. 





SHUSTKR'S GEM 





BEDER WOOD 



CHAPTER XVII. 
NEWER VARIETIES ON TRIAL. 

Try all things and hold fast to that which is good. — Proverb. 

THERE are many for this list, and not a few which 
are pretty certain to come to the front in the near 
future and take their places in the first rank. 
There never was greater activity among berrymen 
than at present to originate and introduce new seed- 
lings, and I am glad that it is so, for this is a worthy 
work and must result in great good. If they will but 
give us one variety of merit annually, their enterprise 
will be justified and they will deserve the thanks of 
their generation, so I wish them abundant success in 
their labors. I am indebted to J. H. Hale for some 
of these descriptions of new berries from his trial bed. 
As before, staminates in large type and pistillates in 
small type. 

Dayton. — A very vigorous plant with broad, heavy, 
pale green foliage that protects both bloom and fruit ; 
producing very large, conical scarlet berries, with yel- 
low seeds, white flesh, especially at the centre, which 
is only moderately firm ; very sweet and mild in flavor, 
but probably best adapted to sandy soil ; ripens early. 
Shown in colored Plate I. 

Hallihan. — A vigorous growing plant of the Crescent type, 
although having broader, thicker leaves ; wonderfully produc- 
tive ; of medium sized, obtuse conical berries ; dark, glossy scarlet 
with white flesh ; moderately firm ; sub-acid of high flavor ; 
more productive and averaging much larger than Crescent. 
Shown in colored Plate II. 



74 BIGGI^E BERRY BOOK. 

Brandywine. — This is a very promising new 
variety originating near West Chester, Pa., supposed 
to be a cross between Cumberland and Glendale, and 
to be introduced by Mr. Crawford. I have seen the 
berry and am highly pleased with it. The plant is 
thrift}^, vigorous, throwing out abundant runners ; the 
fruit is large, of Glendale color, and has large calyx, 
somewhat irregular but not to hurt ; it ripens evenly 
and is red inside ; flavor good, but will be best as a 
market variety as it is very handsome and solid. I 
hope it will prove an addition to the short list of large, 
late, firm varieties. Shown in colored Plate VII, and 
engraving of dish of fruit. 




A DISH OF ROYAL BRANDYWINES 

Marshali.. — Strong growing plant, with broad, 
heavy, dark green foliage, moderately productive of 
large, beautiful, quite dark red berries, with yellow 
seeds ; flesh very dark red, rich and of high flavor ; 
not likely to prove popular for market, but promising 
for amateurs as an exhibition fruit. Should have 
rich, moist soiL 



NEWER VARIETIES ON TRIAI,. 75 

Banquet. — Moderately vigorous plant of the Chas. 
Downing type, yellowish green foliage, moderately 
productive of conical berries ; light, pale red ; white 
flesh, very rich and sweet and exceedingly high- 
flavored, like the native berry of the fields. I have 
not grown the Banquet, but have sampled it and found 
the quality good. The fruit is small and it is not a 
market berry. The color inside and out is shown in 
colored Plate III. 

TiMBRELL. — A much praised new variety that has failed to 
come up to expectations in many places, succeeding well in 
others. The plants last year with me were weakly, this year 
seem strong enough. Dark green foliage, much like Bubach; 
berry of firm, even form, large, rounded, dark red, and mottled 
white and pink ; firm, with red fiesh and late. Will probably 
not prove to be a good market berry. It will take another season 
or two to fix its place, and I hope it has come to stay. Shown in 
colored Plate IV. 

Mary. — A stocky growing plant with many fruit crowns, 
productive of large, roundish conical, dark, glossy crimson 
berries ; very red at the centre ; acid and flavorless ; productive 
and late. I am inclined to think that this will prove a good 
market berry. Shown in colored Plate XII. 

Phii,i,ips. — Moderately thrifty plant, somewhat of 
the style of the Haverland ; moderately productive 
of roundish, conical (and often very conical), glossy, 
scarlet berries, with pink flesh ; very large, rich and 
sweet. Shown in colored Plate XIII. 

Meek's Bari,y. — Vigorous growing plant, with 
broad, tough, leathery foliage, with a slight gloss; 
moderately productive of small, roundish conical, 
dark red berries with red flesh ; quite acid. 



76 



BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 



Besides the above there are Wolverton, a promis- 
ing large berry, one of John Little's, Orange County, 
originated by Mr. Timbrell ; Van Deman, an early 
pistillate of promise ; Belmont, a popular and most 
beautiful large amateur berry, of Massachusetts ; Co- 
lumbus, a large, prolific variety ; Glen Mary, of E. T. 
Ingram, the originator of the Brandywine ; Rio, Belle 
and Equinox, of Cleveland Nursery Co. ; Wm. Belt, 
very large ; Annie Laurie, by John F. Beaver, of Day- 
ton, O. ; Annie Forest, and Fountain, a rather late 
staminate, b}- D. Brandt, Bremen, O ; but this is by no 
means all of the new candidates for popular favor. 




ANNIE LAURIE 

A promising new variety 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

WHAT THEY SAY. 
THE BEST FIVE FOR MARKET. 

What everbody says must be trtie. — Proverb. 

HERE we have it put down in black and white, a 
list of the most valuable varieties for market by 
many of the leading berry growers in the 
United States. From this it will be seen that certain 
sorts are popular in widely separated sections, and 
that good qualities in a variety go with it wherever 
they are given a chance. 

H. S. TiMBRELL Enhance, Timbrell, Barton's Eclipse, Parker 
Earle and lyOvett. N. Y. 

A. P. Sampson Glendale, Bubach, Haverland, Miner's Prolific 
and Sharpless. Mass. 

W. C. Wilson Warfield, Crescent, Lovett, Parker Earle 
and Bubach. 111. 

ROBT. H. GlLLlN Gandy, Pearl, Saunders, Haverland and 
Bubach. Pa. 

Downing, Bubach, Sharpless, Cumberland and Beder Wood 
Wm. D. Barns are probably the most valuable. Haverlaud, 
Jessie, Crescent, Miner's and Michel's Early are nearly as 
popular. N. Y. 

A. G. Sharp Bubach, Haverland, Warfield, Parker Earle and 
Mammoth Beauty. Ma.ss. 

A. W. Slaymaker Smetzer Early, Haverland, I^ovett, Green- 
ville and Timbrell. Del. 

E. W. Reid In the order they ripen : Da3'ton, Haverlaud, 
Greenville, Bubach and Timbrell. O. 



78 



BIGGLK BERRY BOOK. 



Geo. F. Beede 
Lovett. 



Beverly, Warfield, Bubach, Haverland and 

N. H. 



J. R. Hawkins Michel's Early, Van Deman, Timbrell and 

Cumberland. N. Y. 

E. M. BuECHLY Greenville, Haverland, Warfield, Bubach and 

Lovett. O. 

S. R. Rogers Bubach, Haverland, Sharples.s, Parker Earle 

and Jessie. O. 

J. C. Evans Warfield, Bubach, Windsor Chief, Parker Earle 

and Greenville. Mo. 



Edward W. Cone 
and Victor Hugo. 



Warfield, INIichel's Early, Gandy, Pearl 

Wis. 



Crescent, Greenville, Shuster's Gem, Speece, Warfield, of the 
S. W. Gilbert iinperfect flowers, with Capt. Jack, Comet, or 
Jessie cover the whole field of usefulness here, unle.ss we want 
a later berry, then would plant Gandy. Mo. 



Geo. a. Davis 
and Warfield. 



1^ 




JOH\ LlilLL 

Geo. J. Kellogg 
Enhance. 

R. D. McGeehan 
Earle and Crescent. 

Geo. F. Wheeler 
and Hatfield. 



Haverland, Pai-ker Earle, Bubach, Lovett 

N. Y. 

The large berries are most profitable 
John Little here, namely : Wolver- 
ton, Saunders, Shuster's Gem, Nehring's 
Gem, Gillespie, Bubach and Robinson. 

Can. 



Wm. Jackson Bubach, Wolverton, 
Saunders, Annie Forest and Jersey 
Queen. 111. 

Wm. Hoover Parker Earle, Jessie, 
Bubach, Enhance and Warfield. Col. 

Van Deman, Warfield, Lovett, Crescent and 

Wis. 

Warfield, Beder Wood, Robinson, Parker 

la. 

Crescent, Sucker State, Lovett, Bubach 

Mass. 



THE BEST FIVE FOR MARKET. 



79 



T. J. DWYER 
and Timbrell. 



Michel's Early, Bubach, Parker Earle, Gandy 

N. Y. 



A. M. PURDY Michel's Early, Warfield, Haverland, Shuster's 
Gem aud Bubach. 



N. Y. 



Benj. M. Smith Warfield, Beverly, 

Timbrell aud Marshall. Mass. 

Haverland, Warfield, Bubach, Cres- 
EUGENE WiLLETT cent, and Beder 
Wood. N. Y. 

Beder Wood, Eeader and Marshall 
Geo. F. Wheeler for early ; Gen. 
Putnam and Belmont for late. Mass. 

J. H. Hale Greenville, Bubach, Day- 
ton, Ivovett and Windsor. Conn. 




BENJ. M. SMITH 



W. W. Farnsworth 
and Greenville. 



Crescent, L,ovett, Gandy, Warfield 

O. 



G.S.Butler 
Earle. 



Bubach, Haverland, Warfield, Lovett and Parker 

Conn. 



Summary Remarks. 



In the above we have thirty berry experts who 
name five of the best varieties for market purpose, 
and these gentlemen, it will be seen, are widely scat- 
tered over the country. It appears that nineteen of 
them name Bubach ; fifteen, Warfield ; thirteen, 
Haverland; ten, lyovett ; nine, Parker Earle ; eight. 
Crescent ; six, Greenville ; three, Beder Wood, and 
one, Barton's Eclipse, these appearing to be the most 
popular sorts. Therefore, a beginner in strawberry 
culture would not get far off his bearings if he were 



8o BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

to select the five which have the most votes, viz. : 
Bubach, Warfield, Haverland, Lovett and Parker 
Earle. I should prefer Saunders to Lovett, and 
Greenville to Parker Earle. 

Some growers make no distinction between the 
varieties intended for market purposes and those for 
the family to use ; nevertheless, I believe that different 
sorts should be selected, because it is not always the 
sweetest berry that will yield the greatest number 
of quarts, nor carry to market in the most salable 
condition. On the other hand, the variety that is 
most desirable for the family to feast on may be a 
light yielder, and perhaps of poor color and soft in 
texture. Buyers in the towns are attracted by size, 
color and freshness and are not very particular about 
the flavor, while for the folks at home nothing is too 
good for them. A large number of varieties both of 
old and nev/ introduction, that have high merit as a 
home fruit, will not carry to market in good order, 
and should not be placed in the market list. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

BRIEF ANAI^YSIS OF VARIETIES. 

IT may be of advantage to beginners, who have not 
made a study of the different varieties and know 
but little about them, to give a classified list, indi- 
cating prominent characteristics, as below : 

I,ARGE. 

Sharpless, Greenville, Belmont, Saunders, Craw- 
ford, Edgar Queen, Bubach, Jucunda Improved, 
Gandy, Leader, Jessie, Brandy wine, Felton, Mary> 
Iowa Beauty and Wm. Belt. 

EARI,Y. 

Leader, Beder Wood, Crescent, Michel's and Meek's 
Early, Dayton and Haverland. 

I.ATE. 

Gandy, Eureka, Glendale, Parker Earle, Windsor, 
Equinox and Timbrell. 

QUAI^ITY. 

Pearl, Banquet, Cumberland, Crawford, Belmont, 
Dayton, Meek's Early and Iowa Beauty. 

MARKET. 

Pearl, Gandy, Haverland, Saunders, Bubach, Cres- 
cent, Greenville, Parker Earle, Warfield, Leader, Mus- 
kingum, Lovett and Brandy wine. 

The strawberry plant indicates by its leaf what is 
the shade of color, size, shape and quality of the berry. 



82 



BIGGI.K BERRV BOOK. 



The lighter the color of the leaf, the lighter you will 
find the color of the berry ; the darker the leaf, the 
darker the berry. The leaf also indicates the size of 
the berr}^ An irregular berry is indicated by an 
irregular leaf, a round berry by a round leaf, a long 
berry b}' a long leaf. Leaves on the same plant will 
vary considerably, no two are alike, but their general 
form will be the same. Also the relative productive- 
ness of different varieties of strawberries can be told 
by the number of serratures or saw teeth on the leaf. 
The greater the number of serratures the greater the 
number of berries will be produced on an individual 
plant. 




Round Leaf Indicating 
Round Berry 



CHAPTER XX. 

THK Or^D STRAWBERRY BED. 

No matter what they tell you, plow up the bed after getting 
one crop from it. — Tim. 

IT is a mooted question whether it is worth while to 
maintain the bed after one crop is taken off. I 
will first give the views of the brethren and then 
my own. 

J. H. Hale If any one is bound to do so foolish a thing as to 
fruit a bed the second season, etc. Conn. 

John Little Turn the plants under after the picking is done. 

Can. 

Burn over. Plow furrow on to the rows from between the 
A. M. PURDY rows ; harrow lengthwise of the rows and then 
crosswise, getting fresh soil well worked into them. N. Y. 

We have kept valuable varieties two 
or three years. Our mode is to simply 
keep weeds out before, during and after 
bearing, always. Strawberry beds that 
are intended for another year's fruiting 
should be mowed as soon as the season is 
M. A. Thayer over; raked and then 
burned. The rows are then nai-rowed 
down by cutting in between the rows with 
a spade and harrow, removing the cen- 
tre beds. After this is done it is hoed, 
weeded and cultivated the same as a new bed. 

Mow off the growth of weeds and leaves soon after fruiting ; 
clean out paths and beds. It is possible to burn off the rubbish 
George F. Beede if dry, but it requires care and experience 
to make a success of it. Too much heat will kill the plants, too 
little will not kill the weeds and grass. When rightly done it 
destroys all insects, and is a great help to future culture. N. H. 




84 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

Plow out the middle of the row with a plow ; harrow cross- 
wise until furrows are filled, then weed. Plow should be wide 
Benj. Buckman enough to leave a four inch strip on each 
side. This gives double the number of rows for next year which 
must be kept uuderwaj-. 111. 

Never try to get fruit the second season. Plow beds imme- 
George Q. Dow diately after picking the first crop. No use ; 
it costs too much. N. H. 

Samuel Miller Plow under and start a new bed. Mo. 

On old strawberry beds try Dr. Eoring's motto, " A short life 
J. W. Adams and a merry one," but do not discourage boys 
or men by trying to patch up an old strawberry bed. Mass. 

After fruiting throw dirt in a ridge on to the centre of the 
T. E. Goodrich row with a one horse plow. Let lie a few 
days, cultivate down level, and cross the rows with an Acme 
harrow. 111. 

George A. Davis Plow it up ; it never pays to keep it for 
fruiting. N. Y. 



Summary Remarks. 

Since it costs less to grow strawberries on a new 
bed than on an old one, and the berries are finer, it is 
reasonable to conclude that it is best to plow down 
the old bed at the end of the fruiting season, accord- 
ing to the weight of advice given above ; and as it 
appears an old bed is a prolific breeding place for 
fungi and insect pests, and one cause of plant deterio- 
ration, doubtless, as a rule, a thorough plowing, turn- 
ing everything out of sight, is the best thing to do 
with the old strawberry bed. 

However, there may be circumstances that make 
it best to hold the patch over for another crop, and 



THE OIvD STRAWBERRY BED. 85 

where this is to be done the methods described above 
are well conceived and will usually bring fair results. 
Of the ways given, I like the plan of Mr. Purdy and 
Mr. Goodrich best, wherein the furrows are turned 
from the alleys over upon the rows, which are then 
well harrowed, sufficient to uncover the plants. This 
gives me better results than plowing away from the 
rows. 

The practice of first mowing, then burning the 
dead leaves and weeds, is a good one, if the burning 
be carefully done as suggested by Mr. Beede. A very 
hot fire over the plants will kill them. It is my cus- 
tom to plow the old bed down and plant to sugar corn 
July 1st, or to late peas August loth, for market ; or, a 
crop of potatoes may be grown where this crop does 
well planted so late. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



DO VARIETIES RUN OUT. 



That depends. — Tim. 

THERE seems to be a difference of opinion as 
to whether or not varieties run out, and it is 
interesting to read what my friends say on 
the subject. 

A. M. PURDY vSetting plants from old, worn out, diseased plan- 
tations. N. Y. 

Some varieties run out, others do not. Careless selection in 
propagating plants for new beds is the main cause for vigorous 
George F. Beede varieties running out. Seedlings as a rule 
show vigor for a few years, which does not hold out. N. H. 

I am not sure that varieties will run out if thej' receive 
A. I. Root proper care, and new settings are used in planting 
each year. O. 

M. A. Thayer Strawberries run out from lack of care and 
proper mode of production. Wis. 

Varieties do not run out except hy taking plants from old 
H, S. TiMBRELL beds. Keep setting good strong plants that 
have never borne berries and they will always be the same. N. Y. 

I do not think they would run out if care were taken to plant 
Eugene Willett strong, healthy plants from new beds every 
year, and given change of soil once in four or five years. N. Y. 

W. W. Farnsworth Partly, perhaps, from defective soil, and 
partly from taking from beds that have borne fruit. O. 

Varieties do not run out, they simply fail to succeed, and be 
perfect except under very favorable conditions of soil and plants. 
T. J. DWYER In this way they are justly decried "out" until 
the stock of such varieties becomes exhausted and cannot be 
had for the reason it is no longer propagated. N. Y. 



DO VARIETIES RUN CUT. 



87 



It seems to be the law of r.ature that plants not propagated 
from seed should deteriorate. The strawberry is no exception 
Edward W. Cone to this rule, and growers find more com- 
pensation in giving attention to new varieties than in trying to 
improve the old. Wis. 

Varieties do run out but the reason 
is not apparent. It seems to be an estab- 
lished fact that the nearer the plants are 
A. M. PuRDY to the seed bed the greater 
their health and productiveness. Poor 
culture may have something to do with 
it, but fungous diseases do much more to 
weaken certain varieties. N. Y. 

By selecting the most vigorous plants 
J. G. Buchanan each year to propa- 
gate from, plants will never run out. O. 

I use the first plant on the runner for my new beds. In fact 
I will not plant anything else, and the runner must be from a 
S. R. Rogers vigorous mother plant. By following this 
rule you can improve the varieties instead of having them run 
out. O. 

A. D. Webb I have two varieties fruited now seventeen years, 
wil h no perceptible deterioration either in plant or fruit. Ky. 

I think it is the trouble with the fellow that propagates them. 
J. H. Hale Always take plants from new beds, and above 
all things do not let them mat too thickly in the beds. Conn. 




Summary Remarks. 

For my own part I do not believe varieties will 
run out if proper intelligence is given their propaga- 
tion by runners and their after culture. Carelessness 
and neglect and ignorance on the part of the growers, 
and enterprise in those who have made it their duty 
to introduce new varieties, are the main causes of 



88 BIGGI,E BERRY BOOK. 

Strawberry deterioration ; or, they run out because 
plant nurserymen cease to sell them, and because 
improvement is the order of the day, and new and 
better kinds are discovered or propagated. It is time 
a variety had run out, though it may not have deterio- 
rated in the least, when something better has come in. 
One of the greatest errors made by strawberry growers 
is the discarding of valuable kinds before they give 
them a fair trial and learn just what treatment is best 
for them, to take up with some new and costly variety, 
which, in due time, will go out in the same manner, 
perhaps being inferior in every way to the old sorts. 
In this way mau}^ have already discarded that wonder- 
ful berry, the Gandy, which succeeds admirably where 
brains are applied to its culture, and the required con- 
ditions of a crop are complied with. 



PIvATIC XI. 




JUCUNDA IMPROVED 




PLATE XII. 





CHAPTER XXII. 

lyEAF RUST AND INSECTS. 

To avoid seriaus effects from either never have an 
old bed. — Tim. 

RUST or blighting of the leaf of the plant is one of 
the greatest obstacles in many sections to suc- 
cessful strawberry growing. This is not a disease 
of the plant itself, but the growth of a parasite or 
fungus upon the leaf, which, if abun- 
dant, does great injury to the plant, 
hindering its growth and development, 
and causing a failure of the crop of fruit. 
Some varieties are more liable to rust 
..... than others, and the trouble 

appears to be greater in some 
neighborhoods than others. The 
j^*^^ reader will find below some inter- 

esting expressions on this subj ect. 

Samuel Miller The Bordeaux mixture, if used as a spray, 
will prevent leaf rust. Mo. 

Beds that are only fruited one season are not usually troubled 
G. S. Butler with rust or blight. I use Bordeaux mixture, 
if I .see trouble. Conn. 

Rust may be effectuall}' checked by spraying, but prevention 
is better than cure, and there are so many varieties not subject 
Edw. W. Cone to this disease that one can easily choose 
those not liable to it. On ground treated to barn-yard manure, 
plants are much more liable to rust than where a commercial 
fertilizer is used. Wis. 

Charles Wright Have tried nothing to cure leaf blight; 
usually secure such varieties as are not subject to it. Del. 




90 



BIGGLK BERRY BOOK. 



Plant iron-clad varieties, those that do not rust. Such 
Geo. F. Beede varieties are among the most productive, and 
the best every way. N. H. 

S. W. Gilbert The Bordeaux mixture will prevent rust. Mo. 
Benj. M. Smith If possible, put out the kinds that have not 



a tendency to rust. 




T. J. DWYER 



Mass. 
I do not know what will prevent leaf 
rust. It rarely ever attacks a bed of plants 
T. J. Dwyer until it has become old, 
and should be plowed under ; or a bed 
that is on land that has been used continu- 
ously for strawberries. N. Y. 



Burning over the beds is the best I can 
mention. If bothered with rust I would 
E. W. Reid not allow a bed to remain 
over one j'ear, and would not plant the 
same ground more than once in five j'ears. 

O. 
Have had no experience doctoring for leaf rust. Avoid by 
planting new beds every year, with strong, healthy plants from 
new beds. If this course would be taken with our growers in 
general, we think there would not be the trouble now com- 
EuGENE WiLLETT plained of. An old strawberry bed makes 
as near a perfect breeding place for insects and fungi, as it is 
possible to conceive of. Plow them up as soon as through pick- 
ing, and plant to potatoes. These do well after strawberries, 
and your field is in good condition for next spring's setting of 
strawberries. You will see leaf blight in most of heavy yielders 
after producing their crop. The remedy is to set new beds. 

N. Y. 

The fungi which turns the leaves red in mid-summer we 

J. W. Adams avoid by planting only such kinds as are not 

subject to that malady. 



Summary Remarks. 
Leaf rust first shows itself upon tlie leaves as 
purplish or reddish spots ; these enlarge, and the 



LEAF RUST AND INSECTS. 9I 

centre tissues being destroyed, they change to a 
yellowish white color. The spots are often so numer- 
ous as to destroy the leaves. The fungus also works 
upon, and does most injury to, the flower or fruit 
stalks, and as a result the berries wither and dry up. 

The remedy is in planting varieties least subject to 
attack, to set out only strong, healthy plants, from 
beds that have not fruited, give careful cultivation, 
fertilize liberally, and keep a bed in fruiting only one 
year. 

Application of Bordeaux mixture, prepared in the 
usual way, using three pounds of copper sulphate, the 
same of fresh lime, and thirty-two gallons of water. 
Applying early in the spring, and again after the 
blossoms fall, will hold leaf rust in check until after 
the crop is gathered. For the new bed apply as often 
as there is any sign of rust. For an acre, or less, the 
knapsack sprayer will readily do the work — if one 
can carry it by proxy. 

There are several insects that have special fondness 
for the strawberry plant, though I have never been 
bothered with any. The root-borer is about a half-inch 
long, whitish in color, and bores into the crown in the 
fall, remaining all winter. The remedy is to dig up 
and destroy the affected plants. 

The crown-borer is a white grub, one-fifth of an inch 
long, with yellow head; the mature insect is a cur- 
culio. Remedy: Mow the field after fruiting, and 
burn it over. 

The leaf roller feeds on the leaves, rolling them 
up. Eurn. 

Root lice often appear in great numbers, feeding 
on the roots of the plants. Plants received from 



92 



BIGGI.E; BERRY BOOK. 



nurseries should always be examined, and, if lousy, 
should be dipped in kerosene emulsion. 

It is best to be watchful of all destructive insects, 
and where any of them are troublesome, change plants 
and ground, burning the bed over after fruiting, and 
plowing down. 




PI.ATE XIII. 




PHILWPS 




PLATE XIV. 




CUTHBERT 




\ 







LOUDON 



\ 





fJM 



ROYAL CHURCH 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



PICKING AND MARKETING. 



Correct picking helps ready marketing. — Tim. 



WE come now to an important branch of our 
subject, for picking and marketing are half 
the battle, so it will require three chapters to 
get it all in. I begin with a statement of the method 
of picking of one of the most successful growers I 
know of. 

Procure careful pickers. The berries 
should be picked with short stems and 
not rehandled after being placed in the 
boxes. The boxes should be well filled 
to prevent the berries from jolting. They 
should be cooled befoi-e shipping. The 
Robert H. Gillin plants should be 
so handled as to leave the foliage in the 
same position as before picking. This 
treatment secures protection to the un- 
picked fruit and the berry season will 
last longer. Pa. 

A. G. Sharp Pick often, use new baskets and clean and 
painted crates, and get them to market as quickly as possible. 

Mass. 

Strawberries should be picked at least once every twenty-four 
W. F. Allen, Jr. hours, in the cool of the evening as near as 
possible, and put up in clean, neat packages. Where and how to 
market will depend on the section where they are grown. Md. 

Strawberries should be picked off the vines with stems and 
not pulled off without the hulls. If picked with stems a better 
M. A. Thayer appearance is given them and they stand a 
much better shipment. Have standing orders for your fruit, and 
in sending on commission send to a good reliable firm. Wis. 




ROBERT H. GILLIN 



94 BIGGLE BERRY BOOK. 

Pickers should pick with stems on, especially if fruit is large. 
Charles Wright This is hard to get done, especiallj^ in a 
field where several hundred pickers are at work. Del. 

A. M. PURDY For long shipments pick every day to have firm 
fruit. N. Y. 

George F. Beede Pick in the cool of the day. vSmall mar- 
kets near home are the best. N. H. 

The fruit should be graded in picking, being careful to pinch 
off the berry rather than pull. In topping the basket the berries 
E. W. Reid should all be turned with the stem down and 
point up. It makes the fruit more attractive and commands 
better prices. O. 

Andrew Willson Be careful to have the berries clean and as 
uniform in size as possible. O. 

A. W. Slaymaker Pick only the best and market in clean 
packages. Del. 

Build packing shed in centre of the patch. Have an overseer 
Benj. Buckman of pickers to every twenty to forty pickers. 
Use carriers containing six contingencies. Some send their ber- 
ries too far. 111. 

Benj. M. Smith Pick earlj' in the morning, and get them to 
the consumer as early as possible. Mass. 

Picking should be done as early in the day as possible. None 
T. J. DWYER but well ripened fruit should be put on the 
market. It pays well to grade fruit, discarding that which is 
small, irregular or soiled. N. Y. 

Have 3'our baskets and crates neat and clean ; fill baskets so 
they will go in the market slightly rounded. A few fresh 
leaves laid on the top of the boxes sometimes add to their attrac- 
EuGENE WiLLETT tiveness. Do not hide all the berries but 
be siare they do not all come on top. If 5'ou have not private 
customers find an honest commission merchant and stick to him ; 
and if you deliver your own fruit, .stand a few hours in front of 
his store while your stock is being disposed of. It will pay. 

N. Y. 



PICKING AND MARKETING. 95 

In wet weather, pick every day ; in fair, every other day. 
Keep three grades, each by itself. First hunt up persons that 
are willing to pay a fancy price for a fancy article, and they are 
R. D. McGeehan to be found, lots of them. Sell the second 
to grocers or fruit stands, and the third sell at home for what 
you can get for them or use yourself, or feed to hogs. Take to a 
cool, airy cellar as soon as they are picked. Always ship in the 
evening if possible, so they will travel during the night. la. 

George J. Kellogg Pickers by the day are most profitable; 
they pick better and less fruit spoiled and more satisfactor5\ 

Wis. 
G. S. Butler Pick dry ; handle as little as possible ; pack at 
once and market early. Conn. 

Pickers should never be allowed to walk over the beds or 
handle berries except by the stem, which should be pinched oflf 
one-half to three-quarters of an inch from the berry and the ber- 
H. E. McKay ries carefully placed in the boxes. Good super- 
intendence in the field is better than sorting and packing in the 
packing house. Select the best method of transportation rather 
than low rates. Miss. 

Wm. Hoover Berries intended for shipping long distances 
should be but half ripe, and all small berries and culls thrown out. 

Col. 

Wm. Jackson I pick no small or unsound berries. 111. 

I do not object to picking berries when 
J. R. Hawkins wet, they will soon dry 
when put under cover if there is a good 
circulation of air. N. Y. 

Be as honest as you can. Do not allow 
pickers to put any trashy, rotten or green 
berries in the box. To avoid this I find 
W. C. Wilson that it is absolutely 

necessary^o ha-v^ a superintendent in the 
patch and directly among the pickers. 
Use clean new boxes. We use nothing 
but gift boxes here, costing $2.10 per thousand 

A. P. Sampson We pay two cents a quart. Each picker has a 
stand holding six boxes. Mass. 




96 BIGGIvE BKRRY BOOK. 

I charge my pickers to pick nothing but first-class berries for 
S. R. Rogers market ; all inferior beri-ies to be put in a box 
by themselves. Q. 

Sort into two grades and aim at uniformity in every box 
Edward W. Cone and every package. Plant firm berries 
both for home and distant market. Wis. 

Geo. W. Elvins Do not try to ship immediately after a rain. 

N.J. 

The fevs^er pickers one can get along with the better. Use 
men and women ; young boys and girls are no good. I prefer 
young men, the women's dresses drabble too much ; if women, 
George Q. Dow then I want them to wear a sort of bathing 
suit. Never send a basket to market the second time ; use new 
ones and clean crates. Do not deacon your fruit, but have it 
alike all through. Sell your own fruit and keep out of the hands 
of the commission men. N. H. 

We use six basket carriers, Handy's. The pickers sort the 
berries, put in the small, soft or otherwise inferior fruit in one 
E. G. TiCE basket, while the rest are put in the other baskets. 
The pickers arrange the berries neatly on the top of each basket, 
thus pi-esenting a neat appearance. The culls, or seconds, are 
sold to peddlers to do with as they choose. N. Y. 

We pick our berries every day in the berry season, there is 
no other way to do it. You cannot pick a strawberry that is two 
days old and send it to market. It must be picked when it is 
exactly at the right stage for picking, and if you take care to do 
that, you can ship them i ,000 miles if you want to. The condition 
Parker Earle to which I refer is that which the berry 
has reached when it first begins to color. It is largely a question 
of variety, as some varieties will continue to change color and 
ripen after thej^ are picked, while others will not. Of course the 
ones for shipping purposes are the ones that will continue to 
change. 111. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



PICKING AND MARKKTING. 
(Continued.) 

The ticket system and the punch must go. — Tim. 

IFORMERI.Y tised tickets or cards, containing num- 
bers, and a punch, to keep accounts with pickers, 
but the past season I tried the system recom- 
mended by John M. Stahl, in the Farm Journal, and 
liked it so well that I would not think of returning 
to the old way. It works like a charm, the pickers 
are satisfied, and it is no trouble. I think Mr. Stahl 
-had his plan, which is in use about Quincy, 111., first 
printed in the Country Gentleman. 

A bulletin board is erected just outside of the door 
of the receiving and packing room. For each day a 
paper is prepared, to be tacked on the bulletin board. 
Heavy book paper of the required size can be got at 
almost any job printing establishment. This paper 
is ruled with lines half an inch apart, and horizontal 
when the paper is on the board. Along the left margin 
there is a space ruled off for the 
numbers, next for the names of the 
pickers, and then a dozen or more 
spaces in which to put down the 
number of quarts brought in by 
each picker. (See cut). Kvery 
picker has a number. This is im- 
portant ; let the pickers be referred 
to by their numbers, not by their 
names. 

As each picker brings in a load, the number of 
quarts is marked in a space opposite the number of the 




98 BIGGLK BERRY BOOK. 

picker. As an indelible pencil is used, the pickers 
cannot accnse yon of altering the record. As you 
put in the number of quarts in the presence of the 
picker, there will be no oversights or mistakes. The 
entire record is open to any picker at any time during 
the day when she comes to deliver berries. You can 
see at a glance how each picker is working ; or, if you 
desire to know at any time how many quarts have 
been brought in you can foot it up in a minute. 

Each evening the record sheet is taken down, 
folded, and the date, number of quarts picked, and 
whatever other memoranda may be desired, are en- 
dorsed upon it. It is then filed away. These sheets 
furnish a complete account of the season's picking. 
The}^ also furnish valuable information for future use. 
I have found it advantageous to supply each picker 
with a berry tray, on which his boxes, when filled, are 
borne to the picking shed. Mj^ trays were made by 
the following directions, and seem well adapted to the 
service required of them : For the ends, use inch 
strips three inches wide ; for the bottom, four strips 
of laths ; and for each side, one strip. No legs are 
needed. Keep the tray off the plants. A handle is 
made from half a barrel hoop, spanning the tray 
lengthwise, and tacked to the end pieces on the out- 
side. This tray is designed to be made large enough 
to hold six one-quart boxes. Placing 
the handle lengthwise leaves the boxes 
easier to get at, and prevents the tray 
tipping. I only use these trays to put 
the boxes in after the pickers fill 
Berry Tray them, and not to pick in, though I 
believe many growers have the pickers to carry them 




PICKING AND MARKETING. 99 

along while picking ; but this jostles and injures the 
fruit, exposing it to the evil effects of the hot sun, 
and weights the picker. Especially if the sun be hot, 
near the middle of the day, it is best, after filling a 
box, to set it among the foliage, hid from the rays of 
the sun, until a tray load is picked, and then carry to 
the picking shed. The tray is worthless, except as a 
carrier after the boxes are filled. 

If wanted for local markets, start picking at daylight, and 
have pickers enough so the fruit can be gathered and into the 
market before eight o'clock. For distant market, try to pick 
in the evening or in the morning after the dew is off the grass 
and yet before it is too warm. If picking must be done all 
through the heat of the day, plan some way to cool the ber- 
ries. Pickers of mature years are best; and as a rule, girls are 
better than boys. Have a superintendent for every ten or twelve 
pickers to assign the rows, inspect the picking, etc. Kach picker 
should be numbered and have a picking stand with like number 
J.H.Hale to hold four, six and eight quarts. Sort the berries 
as picked into two grades, and always use new, clean baskets 
made of the whitest wood possible. Fill rounding full with fruit 
of uniform quality all the way through. After they are picked 
keep away from the air as much as possible. Fruit, if dry cooled, 
will keep much longer and keep fresher if kept in tight crates. 
Ventilation in crates and baskets does more harm than good ; to 
prove this, pick a basket of nice berries, put in a shady but airy 
place, and I will bet at the end of twenty-four hours the only 
bright and good berries will be in the bottom of the basket away 
from ventilation and light. Conn. 

In picking, do not allow the pickers to touch the berries at 
all, but handle them by the stem, and lay in the boxes one by 
one as they are picked. Pick every ripe berry in the patch every 
day. Place enough green leaves over the berries to prevent their 
S. W. Gilbert being shaken around and bruised. The old 
idea that the strawberry should have plenty of air circulating 
over, under and through them, has been knocked into a cocked 
hat. Treat your customer so nicely that once a customer, always 
a customer. Mo. 



lOO BIGGI^E BERRY BOOK. 

Pay pickers at the end of the season, and pay those who 
stand by you after the berries get small a half-cent per quart 
more than transients. This will hold them together as long as 
Tim you want them. I^et the last picking be for halves — 
half for you and half for the pickers. Small berries must stay 
at home ; the markets want large berries. Use a spring wagon 
only to haul berries. Pa. 

Berries should be picked, as far as possible, when the vines 
are dry : all soft berries thrown out. They should be handled as 
little as possible. Take a light hold of berry with thumb and 
finger, give it a little twirl, pulling from where the berry is fast 
to the ground. Never pull backwards, as you will split the stem 
H. S. TlMBRELL and destroy the j^oung berries. In look- 
ing for berries never bear down on the foliage, but always run 
the hand under and lift up. In this way the foliage is kept in 
good shape. In the beginning of the picking season there should 
be great pains taken to preserve the foliage and green fruit. 
Women make the best pickers. Round up basket well, and 
market as near home as possible. N. Y. 

I would pick the berries as soon as the people would buy, even 
though they were white on one side, and I would pick off every- 
A. I. Root thing in the shape of a berry, no matter whether 
it was sold, given away, or thrown away. Never let berries get 
overripe on the vines. O. 



PLATE XV. 



KANSAS 





GREGG 




4l# 

^^^^^ OLDER ^^^^^ 



PLATE XVI. 




PALMER 




/ 




BLACK CURRANT 




LOVETT 




CHAPTER XXV. 

CONTRIBUTORS' PORTRAITS. 

BIOGRAPHY. 

/ have always observed that the most generous^ most Intel' 
ligent, most progressive, most upright and most useful men 
are to be found in the ranks of those interested in horticul- 
ture, and too much honor cannot be done them by their fellow 
citizens. — Tim. 

SCATTERED through this little book will be seen the 
portraits of many well-known gentlemen, living 
and dead, who are, or have been, prominently- 
identified with the cultivation of berries, either for the 
fruit or for the propagation and introduction of fruit - 
bearing plants, and it gives me real pleasure to be able 
to present to the general public pictures of these 
honorable and eminent men-, and at the same time to 
give the reader bits of their wisdom and experience 
in the berry business. 

This gentleman was born at Newburgh, N. Y., in 1S28. and 
lives near there now (at Middlehope). He is greatly interested 
Wm. D. Barns in fruit, and was a. pioneer in the use of the 
Bordeaux mixture in the spraying of grapes. He contributes 
of his store of knowledge to the purpose of this book. Page 44. 

Of this gentleman it can almost be said that he was '' born 
in a berry field," having cultivated strawberries for over forty -one 
years, or since he was nine years old. He grows and takes to Phila- 
ROBT. H. GiLLiN delphia, from the adjoining county of 

Montgomer}^, the finest strawberries ever seen in the Philadel- 
phia markets, and he and his father have done this for over fifty 
years. His cousin, Oscar Felton, is famous as a fruit grower, 
and originated the Felton strawberry. Page 93. 



I02 BiGGIvE BE;RRY BOOK. 

Here is a gentleman who has contributed largely to the value 
and interest of this book. He was born in New Hampshire on a 
fruit farm, and has been deeply interested in horticulture all his 
life. He began to grow strawberries as a special crop in 1880, 
and has continued ever since, experimenting largely and exhibit- 
J. W. Adams ing fruit at fairs in Massachusetts and Connecti- 
cut, which attracted much attention. He is ardently devoted to 
his work and his successes have been marked. He is ever ready 
to impart his knowledge freeh' to others, and I hear him spoken 
of as a worthy gentleman, doing a grand, good work, and hon- 
ored according!}^ by his neighboi'S and all who know him. He 
lives at Springfield, Mass. Page 14. 

This gentleman was prominentlj^ identified with horticul- 

rture in his native state, N. J., until his 
death, which occurred in July last, in his 
sixty-fourth year. His name is honored 
JT' " ' throughout the countryfortheworkhedid, 

'''"""" E. Williams not the least of which was 

,j „ 

his influence in establishing a new system 
of nomenclature of the strawberry, i. e., 
the giving of feminine names to pistillate 
varieties. The idea being suggested by 
him was instantly adopted, and the re- 
E. WILLIAMS form meets with universal approval. 

Here is one of the 3'ounger fry, having been born in 1863, at 
Seaford, Delaware, where he now conducts, with much skill, a 
nursery and fruit farm. He was superintendent of the Bureau 
Chas. Wright of Pomology at the Chicago World's Fair, in 
1893, and has contributed some very practical suggestions to this 
book. With youth, energy, a quick intelligence, and a strong 
taste for horticulture, he will be heard from further in the good 
work he is engaged in. Page 48. 

I am much pleased with this gentleman's contributions to 
this book — they are sincere, honest, intelligent, and of a very 
practical character. He it is who originated the celebrated Tini- 
H. S. Timbre LL brell strawberry. He was born in N. J. in 
1847. His health failing while in mechanical pursuits he turned 
his attention to berry culture, especially to seedling strawberries. 
His home is now in Orange County, N. Y. Page 40, 




CONTRIBUTORS' PORTRAITS, 



105 




Born in 1834 in New Yoi-k City, and mingling with the world 
as assistant in a publisher's ofifice, and afterwards in the jewelry 
business in New York and St. Louis for forty years. Mr. Haw- 
J. R. Hawkins kins then became intimately associated with 
Mr. Charles Downing, and he was well acquainted with the late 
Rev. E). P. Roe. He is the originator of the Banquet strawberry 
and has many other seedlings on trial. Page 95. 

This gentleman was born April, 1846, 
and is, therefore, forty-eight years old. 
Previous to 1882, he was a travelling sales- 
man, but, his health failing, he engaged in 
D. Brandt farming at Bremen, Ohio, 
making the strawberry a specialty, and 
during the past twelve years fruiting and 
testing about 350 varieties, devoting much 
time to seedlings. He is the originator 
of the Fountain strawberry. 

D. BRANDT 

This name is well known in New 
England, where its owner has been prominent in horticultural 
circles for years. He it was who introduced the Beverly 
strawberry, naming the variety after his own town. He is sixty- 
Benj. M. Smith one years of age, and half of his life has been 
occupied in strawberry culture. Mr. Smith is an interesting 
man, and his berry experience given in this book adds much 
to the value of the work. Page 79. 

This gentleman recently died at his home at Green Bay, Wis., 
distinguished alike for his love of horticulture, business ability, 
nobility of character and absence of" the 
least touch of pride, arrogance, vanity or 
egotism." Born in Morris County, N. J., 
he removed to Wisconsin in 1854, and 
J M. SMITH began farming, pursuing 
his favorite calling with great success. A 
most striking evidence of his enterprise 
and thoroughness was that he was able 
to grow and fruit the old Wilson straw- 
berry years after it was generally given 
up and pronounced worthless. It did not 
'run out" on his plantation however it did elsewhere. 




I04 



BIGGI.K BERRY BOOK. 




This gentleman is well known as an apiarian, editor of 
" Gleanings in Bee Culture," small fruit grower, and writer and 
publisher of several interesting and valuable books. Among 
A. I. Root them is an excellent book on Strawberry Culture, 
by T. B. Terrj', and one on Tile Drainage, by W. I. Chamberlain. 
Besides being a practical man, he is overflowing with enterprise 
and zeal in whatever good work he engages in. He was born 
fifty-four years ago near Medina, Ohio, where he now lives. 
Page 15. 

This is one of the sous of J. M. Smith, 
and inherits his father's business ability, 
Horace J. Smith earnestness, honesty, 
genialit}^, and other manlj' qualities. He 
furnished me some practical notes in berry 
culture for this book, which I am sorry 
did not reach me earlier. 

This gentleman was born at Yellow 
Springs, O., in i860. He is a self-taught 
HORACE J. SMITH printer, and has souie experience as editor, 
but took up fruit growing at Vineland, N. J., afterwards moving 
Edw. W. Cone to Menomonee, wis., eight years ago, making 
fancy fruit a specialty', devoting considerable attention to seed- 
ling strawberries. He contributes freely and wisely to these 
pages. Page 41. 

This individual is the discoverer ot 
the Greenville strawberry, an honorable 
E. M. BUECHLY distinction that any 

one may well take satisfaction in. He 
was born in Ohio, in 1857, near the town 
of Greenville, where he now dwells. 

This is one of the veterans. He began 
life in Wayne Countj^, N. Y., in 1835, and 
strawberry growing twelve years later, 
and has been at it ever since, and expects 
A. M. PuRDY to continue in the busi- 
ness until he quits work here below. Mr. Purdy has been editor 
and nurser3!'man as well as fruit grower. He has now (1894) 112 
acres of land near Palmyra, N. Y., devoted to fruit growing and 
trucking. He contributes to this work. Page 87. 




E. M. BUECHLY 



PLATE XVII. 




FAY 



NORTH STAR 



PLATE ;x:viii. 



VICTORIA 



CONTRIBUTORS PORTRAITS. 



105 



The subject of this sketch was born at Newburgh, N. Y., in 
1856 ; soon after his parents i-emoved to Coi'nwall, and when old 
enough he secured a position as foreman with the noted author 
T. J. DWYER and horticulturist, K. P. Roe. In 1884 he started 
the " Orange County Nurseries " on a capital of $200, which now 
does an immense business, and with its worthy proprietor, 
enjoys the confidence of the public. Page 90. 



This excellent gentleman resides at 
Irvington, Ind. , and is interested in the cul- 
ture of small fruits. He has been president 
of the Indiana Hort. Society for eleven 
Sylvester Johnson years, and is 
treasurer of the State Board of Agricul- 
ture, worthily filling both positions. He 
gives his experience in the pages of this 
book. 



This is Hale, who has so much vim, 
SYLVESTER JOHNSON backed by so much good sense, honesty, 
and amiability, that his fame is as wide as the continent and as 
permanent as the hills. He is, perhaps, best known as a success- 
ful Connecticut and Georgia peach grower, but the Hale Bros.' 
J. H. Hale nursery of berry plants, at South Glastonbury, 
Conn., ranks second to none. I acknowledge my indebtedness 
to Mr. Hale for the most generous and intelligent help in secur- 
ing specimens for illustrating this book, and for his admirable 
and copious notes on berry growing. Page 13. 




This child of New England was born 
but twenty-eight years ago, a native of 
Connecticut, and has been actively en 
gaged in the strawberry business twenty 
years— so he began early. He is a vigor 
Geo. S. Butler ous down-east hustler 
He is secretary of the Conn. Pomological 
Society. He has been a member of the 
State Legislature, where he made a fine 
record, and is none the worse for that 
experience. Berry notes from his pen will 
be found in this book. 




GEO S BLTLfR 



io6 



BIGGI.K BERRY BOOK. 



Here is another youngster who yet is quite a veteran in experi- 
ence with berries, and has wen marked success as a small fruit 
A. G. Sharp farmer. From less than loo acres of hilly, New 
England farm land he has sold in one year $3,087.76 of produce, 
of which nearly all came from berries. His experience notes will 
be found in this book. Page 41. 



This venerable personage died at Cam- 
bridge, Mass., in September, 1887. He was 
a pioneer in horticulture and a leader all 
his life, compatriot with A. J. Downing, 
Charles Downing, Dr. John A. Warder and 
Charles M. Hovey Marshall P. Wilder. 
He is given place in this work, especially, 
because he originated the famous Hovey 
seedling strawberry, which, at the time, 
and for many years after, was deemed a 
great acquisition to the berry world. 




CHARLES M HOVEY 



I was very desirous of securing the portrait of this distin- 
guished Canadian gentleman for my book, and did so with much 
coaxing. Mr. lyittle was born in Ireland in 1815, emigrated to 
Ontario, Canada, in 1843, so he may be called one of the veterans. 
John Little He possesses an ardent love for plants and 
trees, and has devoted many years to the production of seedling 
strawberries, several of which have proven valuable, among 
others Saunders, Crawford and Woolverton. I know of no 
person noted in any department of horticulture who enjoys 
greater esteem than this modest Christian gentleman, who is 
now in his eighty-first year. Page 78. 



I have here an indefatigable small 
fruit grower who has made the strawberry 
a specialty, and has had I'emarkable suc- 
cess in growing fine fruit for market. His 
Edward T. Ingram name has lately 
come into prominence as the originator of 
the new " Brandy wine," which promises 
to be a very valuable late market variety 
Mr. Ingram is a Chester County, Pa , 
farmer, which in itself is no mean recom- 
mendation. 




EDWARD T. INGRAM 



contributors' portraits. 



107 



" The growing of small fruits has been to me a source of 
income and has paid my debts, and also built for us a nice 
house ;" so writes this estimable gentleman, who lives at North 
Eugene Willett Collins, N. y.,not far from Buffalo. The 
first work he ever remembers to have done was picking straw- 
berries for an uncle at a cent a quart, and he has been interested 
in berry growing ever since. He is in the forty-first year of his 
age. He is a successful and interesting man. Page 23. 



One of the substantial fruit and fruit- 
plant growers of Michigan, a native, 
though, of the Berkshire Hills of New 
England, where he was born in 1849. His 
O. A. E. Baldwin father dying, he re- 
turned to the old place, and in 1856 remov- 
ed to Michigan, where he has engaged in 
berry growing largely, and lately in sup- 
plying plants, in which he has a very large 
trade. 




O. A. E. BALDWIN 



This gentleman's name has become widely and pleasantly 
familiar from his monthly berry bulletins, which appear in the 
agricultural press of the country. He went to Wisconsin 
in 1856 ; is now president of the State Hort. Society ; and 
M. A. Thayer " Thayer Fruit Farms " are said to be producers 
of more berries and berry plants than any other concern or indi- 
vidual in the northwest. Over 100 acres are devoted to berries 
alone. Located at Sparta, a city which Mr. Thayer once presided 
over as mayor. Page 83. 



It would not do to omit this gentle- 
man from any galaxy of portraits of small 
fruit men, for none are more conspicuous 
than he. It was in 1878 that he took the 
first steps in the establishment of the cele- 
J. T. LOVETT brated Monmouth Nur- 
series, at I^ittle Silver, N. J., and now the fill, 
business done there is simply immense. 
He makes small fruits a specialty, and his 
" Guide" is one of the most attractive pub- 
lications of the kind sent out to the public. 




J. T. LOVETT 



io8 



BiGGIvE BERRY BOOK. 



This gentleman is an Ohio man born in 1863 on the farm 
now used by him for a nursery near the town of Bridgeport- He 
E. W Reid has already won distinguished success in the 
nursery business. He is the introducer of the Timbrell straw 
berry, and the author of manj' valuable contributions to the 
rural press, and furnishes some excellent notes tor this book 
Page 35. 

This is one of the best known straw- 
berry propagators and culturists in the 
country, living at Cuyahoga Falls, O. He 
IS of Scotch-Irish parentage, born July 5. 
M.Crawford 1839, and has been grow- 
ing strawberries thirty-seven years. Few 
have done more to Introduce new and de- 
sirable varieties of berries than Mr Craw- 
ford, and he enjo3^s the confidence of a vast 
multitude of patrons 

M. CRAWFORD ^his Hve Ohio gentleman, who con- 

tributes so intelligently to the interest of this book, was born 
near Waterville, O., in 1855. near where he now farms. He is 
ardently devoted to horticulture, is secretary of the Ohio State 
W. W. Farnsworth Hort. Society and has large orchards, 
consisting of 2,800 pear trees, 1,500 peach, 300 cherry, 300 apple, 
1,500 plums, besides 24 acres of oerries. He has abundant faith 
in the business, and expects to go right ahead on this line- 
Page 40. 




This young gentleman is getting a good start, considering 
his name now is widely known as a berry 
man. while yet he is only twenty-eight 
years of age. He exhibited sixty-seven 
varieties of strawberries, at the World's 
L J. Farmer Fair, and received the 
highest award for largest and finest dis- 
play. He was born at Pulaski, N. Y., and 
still lives there, and carries on the nursery 
business. He is the author of a little work 
on the strawberry, which does great credit 
to him, being replete with practical infor- 
mation on the subject. 




CONTRIBUTORS PORTRAITS- I09 

This is a Pennsylvanian transferred to Kansas soil, where he 
IS prominent m horticultural circles and greatly interested in 
Dr. J. Stayman berries, This modest, earnest, true gentle- 
man resides at lycavenworth , and though well up into the seven- 
ties keeps up his interest in affairs, especially those relating to 
horticulture. Page 46. 

This gentleman is a New Yorker by birth, born in 1828, 
removing to Wisconsin m 1835 ' spent three years in California, 
from 1849, and then located at Janesville, Wis., where he engaged 
Geo. J. Kellogg in the nursery business, which is still 
carried on, two sons helping him. This excellent firm make 
strawberries and roses specialties, and conduct a large and 
prosperous business. Admirable advice is contributed to this 
book from Mr. Kellogg' s ready pen. Page 49. 




CHAPTER XXVI. 

A r,IST OF DON TS- 

Don't give up. — Tim. 

IN berry culture, as in many other things, it is nearly as im- 
portant to know what not to do as what to do. and how to 
do it ; therefore I have brought together a large number of 
Don'ts, which I think will be appreciated all around, 

A M. PURDY Don't discard old reliable sorts for untried new 
ones. Don't build too many air castles. N. Y. 

G S Butler Don't set out more than you can care for and 
fertilize. Conn. 

Don't wait until the plants are in bloom before setting them 
in the spring. Don't let layer plants, set in the spring, fruit that 
T. J. DWYER season. Don't expect the pistillate varieties to 
bear alone. Don't hope for as good results from one variety as 
from three or more. Don't expect a berry to be early, productive, 
large, firm, handsome, of splendid color and of the best flavor. 

N. Y. 

Don't set plants until ground is fine and firm. Don't plant a 
large acreage until you have had an apprenticeship on a 
W. W. Farnsworth smaller scale- Don't be afraid to fill the 
baskets chuck full. Don't cultivate deep. Don't let plants stand 
too thick in the rows. O. 

Don't be too sure you have the best varieties for your soil and 
Eugene Willett climate. Don't let your beds get weedy 
during haying and harvesting. Don't let the rows grow entirely 
together, keep a path for pickers. N. Y. 

Benj. M. Smith Don't grow many sorts of strawberries. 

Mass. 

Don't set out more than you can take care of well. Don't be 
Geo. Q. Dow afraid to try the new kinds ; a few of each cost 
but little, and you may find one that is j ust suited to your locality 
and pay you big. N. H. 



A I.IST OF DON'TS. Ill 

A. P. Sampson Dou't have mauy kinds at a time. Mass. 

Don't let dry winds blow on the roots when setting. Don't 
H. S. TiMBRELL hoe too deep close to the plants. Don't put 
all the big berries on the top of the basket. Don't put in any 
poor berries. Don't use any old, dirty baskets. N. Y, 

Don't be afraid to do j'our share of missionary work in the 
W.C.Wilson cause. Buy some of the new varieties. Don't 
imagine you know all there is to learn in strawberry culture. 111. 

Don't plant too heavy of any sort until you have tested it in a 
small way first. Don't expect to get the best prices for your ber- 
ries if you put all the small ones in the bottom of the basket. 
Charles Wright Don't think the country is overstocked with 
strawberries or that yours will glut the market. By all means 
don't delay planting a strawberry patch next spring, for family, 
if not for market. Del. 

Wm. D. Barns Don't set on sod land. Don't cultivate or hoe 
deeply. Don't cover the crown of the plant. N. Y. 

Don't delay planting until hot weather. Don't set common 
plants from old patches even as a gift. Don't spend large 
W. F. Allen, Jr. amounts for new varieties, but buy a few 
from some reliable nursery and try them for yourself. Don't 
watch for the grass and weeds to start before beginning to culti- 
vate. Md. 

Don't think because one has cleared $500 on an acre of straw- 
A. G. Sharp berries this year that you can do the same next 
year. Mass. 

Benj. Buckman Don't expect to learn it all in one lifetime. 

111. 

Don't let too many runners grow. Don't depend on any one 
A. W. Slaymaker variety, and don't fail to try a few of the 
promising new ones, so as to know which suits your soil and 
conditions. Don't try to sell little, knotty or imperfect berries. 

Del. 

Don't let the weeds grow ; hoe if not weedy. Don't ask the 
Geo. a. Davis pickers to pick larger quarts than you give 
your customers. N. Y. 



112 BiGGIvK BERRY BOOK. 

Andrew Willson Don't let too many plants grow. Don't 
remove the mulch in the spring— loosen it. O. 

Don't plant too deep. Don't allow the crown to be covered 
in working. Don't allow the plants to get on a ridge. Don't let 
E. W. Reid runners set until July. Don't plant too many 
acres. A less amount properly cared for will pay a better 
profit. Don't use land that is not well drained. O. 

Don't allow weeds to smother the plants. Don't trust wholly 
Geo. F. Beede to nature in placing runners. Don't destroy 
last pickings when picking first berries. Keep the plants upright 
and in good shape. N. H. 

Don't leave the runners to be tossed about in the wind. 
Press each one lightly into the soil and fasten with a couple of 
Edw. W. Cone stakes, a stone or a clod of earth. The first 
runners that start make the best plants for next year's fruiting. 
Don't neglect to plant a generous test plot each year. Wis. 

H. E. McKay Don't think you know it all. Don't call your mer- 
chant a thief when he cannot get big prices. Miss. 

Don't let the pickers handle two berries at a time with one 
R. D. McGeehan hand. Don't ridge the ground up in rows 
when cultivating ; keep the ground level as possible. la. 

Uriah Hair & Sons The don'ts are all summed up in the fol- 
lowing : Don't neglect to be thorough. N, Y. 

Dr. J. Stayman Don't put off your work until to-morrow if 
it can be done to-day. Kan. 

Z. T. Russell Don't use boxes the second time, but always 
have them bright and new. Mo. 

Wm. Hoover Don't let the berry patch go without cultivat- 
ing more than one week. Col. 

E. M. BUECHLY Don't hire too cheap a class of pickers, as it 
pays to pick with care. O. 

Don't rest satisfied until you can grow more and better straw- 
J. H. Hale berries to the rod than any other fellow in the 
neighborhood, and then — don't fail to tell your neighbors how 
it is done, so they can go and do likewise. Conn. 



A WST OF DON'TS. 113 

Geo. J. Kellogg Don't plant by a line. If you use one, walk 
it down, and plant in the tracks. A corn marker makes good 
rows. Wis. 

J. C. Evans Don't allow your pickers to talk while picking. 

Mo. 

John Little Don't sell old plants under new names. Can. 

Don't let the chickens scratch the manure off the plants. 
ROBT. H. GlLLIN Don't think you can raise a crop of weeds 
and strawberries. Don't let your berries get too ripe when you 
ship them to market. Don't rake the manure off in the spring. 

Pa. 

Don't get the strawberry fever unless you get enough to last 
twelve months in a year. Don't expect much from a loose, sandy 
E. T. Ingram soil without a harder subsoil. Don't try to 
learn it all by your own experience. Don't expect all varieties to 
do as well for you as for some one else. Don't condemn a variety 
unless you know you have the one you ordered. Pa. 

Don't let your berries get too ripe on the vines, or a few over- 
ripe ones will spoil the rest. Don't let berries stand in the sun 
Horace J. Smith after being picked. Don't let the pickers 
tread or roll on the vines, nor play base ball. Don't leave a bed 
too long, but set some new vines every year. Don't wait till 
picking time before making up cases and boxes for the season. 

Wis. 

Don't plant on undrained land, on foul land, on too light 
T. G. TiCE land, on too much land, on too poor land. Don't 
use too little fertilizer, too little labor, too little brains. Don't 
neglect underdraining. N. Y. 



CHAPTER XXVII, 

AFTERMATH. 

Not a bit of use in expecting to get a good n'op of berries 
from feeble plants. Make the plants as big and strong as 
you can^ with broad leaves. — Tim. 

SHAKESPEARE States that strawberries were grown in gardens 
in the time of Richard III, but were a rarity. They were 
among- the street cries of London over 400 years ago. 

The great Linnaeus is reported to have cured himself of the 
gout by partaking freelj^ of strawberries — a delightfull5' sesthetic 
cure, and a most flattering testimonial to the efficacy of the 
dainty scarlet fruit. 

Nicholas lyOngworth, of Ohio, was the first to discover the 
cause of barrenness, which stood in the way of successful straw- 
berry culture sixty years ago. The sexual difference in plants 
was not understood before his time, and failure to produce fruit 
was the customary thing. Only a little over forty years ago the 
discovery was made that it was best to keep the sexes in separate 
rows. Who made the discovery ? 

Do not overlook the importance of study before going deeply 
into berry culture ; and pay frequent visits to neighbors who 
have had experience in this line. See what they do, hear what 
they say, learn all you can from them. 

Manure liberall}' — little and often — say at intervals of a 
mouth through the first summer. Sprinkle along the rows 
nitrate of soda, bone meal and muriate of potash or chicken 
manure and ashes, or any good commercial fertilizer, and do 
not be afraid of i ,000 pounds per acre for the year, in addition to 
any other manure that may have been applied at the first prepa- 
ration of the ground, or as a winter mulch. 

Fruiting strawberries in hills is generally not as successful 
as in matted rows. There are several reasons for this : when 
grown in hills, in ground that is not level, the water washes 
the loose soil from around the hills, leaving the plants high up, 
and liable to suflfer from drought. The fruit should be well shaded 
from the hot sun, and this is not so well done in hill culture. 



AFTKRMATH. II5 

Some varieties will stand more neglect than others. 

Some varieties are better adapted to hill culture, others do 
best in matted rows. 

Some varieties should have more room than others. 

Some will stand rainy weather at picking time better than 
others. 

Vary the culture to suit the variety. 

No use trying to grow foreign varieties. Our American sun 
is too hot for them. 




CHAPTER XXVIII. 

THE RASPBKRRY, 

HAVING pretty fully written about the strawberry, I come now 
to the other small fruits, but shall devote only a moderate 
space to them, since I am not so well informed by experi- 
ence as of the strawberry, and the limit of this work is already 
nearly reached. What I shall say will be largely what I have 
learned from others, and I hope 
will be none the less useful on that 
account. I have grown nearly all 
kinds of small fruits for the family 
supply, but have always been most 
interested in the strawberry, and 
have given it the most careful 
study ; but I believe the culture of 
the raspberry, gooseberry and cur- 
rant can be made profitable in 
many places, and ought to be 
undertaken by manj' farmers who are favorably located as to 
soil, climate and markets, and who find ordinary cereal farming 
unprofitable. 

The raspberry is of easy culture, a sure cropper, excellent 
as a table fruit after strawberries are gone, and for canning and 
preserving it cannot be beat, and sells well in market. 

Were I going to set out a raspberry bed I should place the 
plants in rows four or five feet apai't each way, so it could be 
cultivated with little labor, the black varieties requiring a little 
more room than the reds. If set in rows one way the canes 
can be supported by a wire trellis, as shown on next page. 
The planting is best done in the spring, and the ground should 
be kept mellow by frequent cultivation up to July, but do not go 
deep, for the roots of the raspberry are near the surface. Rasp- 
berries do well in an orchard where a little shaded, and prefer a 
loamy to a sandy soil. 

Annually the ground should be fertilized with well rotted 
stable manure, and some complete commercial fertilizer in 
addition, at the rate of i,ooo pounds per acre. It is recommended 





Il8 BIGGLE BERRY BOOK. 

by some to plant raspberries in rows seven feet apart, mulch on 
each side of the rows for two feet, and cultivate the two foot 
strips in the centre, to keep the soil loose, putting the mulch on 
in June. Four or five bearing canes are enough to let stand in 
the hill, which, after fruiting, should be cut away. The new 
succulent canes of the red raspberry, which come up in the 
spring, are the ones which bear fruit the following year. These, 
in rich ground, will grow too tall, and it is best to make them 
stocky and spreading, by clipping or pinching off the tops when 
they get about two feet high, and all the canes of weak growth 
should not be allowed to grow at all. Never trim in the fall. 
Some growers advise never to trim the raspberry after the first 
year during the growing season, at any rate, if done at all, it 
should be done early. 

Some prefer to plant a trellis of 
wire along the rows and fasten the 
canes thereto, and where regard is 
had to neatness, it is well. Two trel- 
lises with the row between is best , 
then tjang will not be needed 

Get plants certainly true to name, and remember that varie- 
ties are apt to get mixed in some nurseries. 

The raspberry bed will be inclined to run out after four or 
five years, unless well taken care of, but can be renewed by cut- 
ting all of the canes off to the ground in early spring, and burn- 
ing, loosening up the ground and thinning the plants , then an 
application of a forkful of rich manure over each plant will do 
the business. 

Black -cap raspberries root from the tips of the canes, and 
the new plants thus formed become the bearing canes next year, 
so that it is important to give attention at the right season, to 
see that the tips are rooted, for, if this be disregarded, there will 
be but little fruit, and the bed will soon run out. 



RED VARIETIES. 

Turner.— Plant a very strong grower, noted for hardiness, 
and free from diseases ; fruit large, soft, juicy and sweet, pleasant 
to the taste, but not of high quality ; a week or ten days earlier 
than the Cuthbert ; too soft for market , best for light soils and 
cold climates . suckers much. 



THE RASPBERRY. 



119 



Golden Queen. — Very similar to the Cuthbert, except that 
it is yellow. 

Cuthbert. — This is the best red raspberry. It is a great 
bearer, the plant is healthy and vigorous, the quality of fruit is 
fair, it is of large size, late in ripening, a good market berry, 
being firm enough to ship considerable distances, and it will 
stand severe winter weather. The fruit is reddish purple, and 
attractive looking. It is the main market berry in many sections, 
and for the table it suits the average taste. In fact, the Cuth- 
bert takes the lead among the reds, and may safely be selected 
for the family table as well as f 01 market. Shown en colored 
Plate XIV. 

Caroline. — A good home berry, being an excellent table 
fruit. 

I,OUDON. — Another new variety that is well spoken of. The 
fruit is shaped like the Cuthbert, ibut not quite as long. The 
color is bright, showy red , of excellent quality, and believed to 
be hardy ; berry ripens late. Hale says it is sweeter than Cuth- 
bert. Shown on colored Plate XIV. 

Shaffer. — A strong grower ; hardy; berry, very large ; dull 
purple, of sprightly flavor ; ripens with Cuthbert ; better adapted 
to the south than the north. The new Columbia is very like the 
Shaffer. 

Marlboro. — This is a fine berry also ; 
a little earlier than the Cuthbert ; larger, 
softer, and requires more careful culture 
than the Cuthbert. A fine family berry. 

Thompson's Barly Prolific. — A 
good, early berry; productive; berries 
small size, but'crumble easily ; of a bright 
crimson coloi and of fine quality. Han- 
sell IS another early berry , firm and of 
bright color, but a shy bearer. 

Royal Church.— This is a new 
variety, much praised, with some good Marlboro 

qualities, but the berry falls to pieces readily. Shown on colored 
Plate XIV. 





I20 BIGGI.K BKRRY BOOK. 

Miller —A new variety fovmd in Delaware, which finds 
great favor there. Of good qualitj', a good shipper, ripens 
early, and is very prolific. Shown on page ii6. 



BLACK VARIETIES. 

I shall not minutely describe these for want of space. Gregg 
is one of the best market sorts, and is more extensively grown 
for that purpose than any other. Johnson's 
Sweet is a good berry, but the bed dies out and 
has to be renewed every three or four years. 
Kansas is a newer variety of great value, both 
for home use and for market. Hillborn is a 
good early. Lovett much praised by some. 
Palmer is similar to Kansas, early and good. 
Older is a variety of high quality, and should 
have general trial. Gregg, Kansas and Older 
are shown on colored Plate XV ; Palmer and Lovett on colored 
Plate XVI. 

It ought to be understood that all plantations of black rasp- 
berries will deteriorate rapidly, and ought to be removed and 
new plantings made after a few years' bearing. Plantings 
should be made early in the spring. 

New plants of the black raspberry are started in September 
by covering the tips with moist soil, two or three inches deep, 
and allowing them to remain until spring. 

M. A. Thayer sums up the black -caps in this way: In black- 
caps the Ohio, Palmer, Progress and Older for early, and Nemeha 
and Gregg for late. Marlboro and Cuthbert, for reds, are the 
best well tested varieties. Shaflfer for quality and productive- 
ness, unexcelled for family use. 

The value of a berry often depends on location and cultiva- 
tion. Many new varieties, made promising by extra cultivation, 
are of no value with ordinary care, hence, the large list of high- 
priced novelties that come and go in a single season. As poor 
berries improve with high culture, so good deteriorate with 
neglect. Best berries are produced only by best culture. 

The raspberry has two troublesome diseases : the black-cap 
orange rust and anthracnose. The former is to be dreaded, from 
the fact that the only known remedy for it is to dig up all infested 



PLATE XIX. 




CHERRY 



WHITE GRAPE 



PLATE XX. 





HOUGHTON 



COLUMBUS 




CHAUTAUQUA 





SMITH'S IMPROVED DOWNING 



THE RASPBERRY. 121 

plants and burn them. The authracnose can probably be pre- 
vented by spraying with Bordeaux mixture. I have not space 
to treat of insect enemies of the raspberry. 



THE BLACKBERRY. 

The blackberry requires culture very similar to the red 
raspberries, and success is often obtained by growing this fruit 
for market purposes. Our fruit growers still keep to the old 
reliables : Snyder, Dorchester, Kittatinny, Eawton and Wilson's 
Early. But newer ones, such as Wilson Jr., Minnewaski, Eldo- 
rado, Ohmer, Ancient Briton, and Early Harvest are being 
planted and, where they have fruited, have given satisfaction. 
The Snyder is esteemed where an extra hardy one is wanted. 
It is sweet to the core, and very prolific, hence is much planted. 
Ancient Briton is recommended for cold climates. 

The country owes a large debt 
of gratitude to Mr. lyUther Bur- 
bank, of California, for his long 
and successful endeavor to pro- 
duce new flowers and fruits ; and 
among his productions are a num- 
ber of beautiful blackberries, two 
of which, one black, on next page, 
the other white, shown here, the 
engraving being taken, by permis- 
sion, from his catalogue. 

Mr. J. H. Hale tells of his experi- 
ments in thinning blackberries. By cutting off half of the blos- 
soms with shears, which requires little time and expense, he has 
greatly increased the size of the Snyder. This is otherwise sure 
to overbear and produce small berries ; yet it is one of the most 
reliable of our standard varieties. Minnewaski, in his estima- 
tion, is the best of all blackberries, hardy, large, and of good 
quality. He is opposed to planting blackberries in hedge rows, 
but prefers to plant eight feet apart each way, and to cultivate 
both ways. 

It is best to prune the blackberry late in the spring, when 
the fruit buds can be distinguished. 

Dewberries are of but little worth, and I would not recom- 
mend them to be planted. They have one merit, that of earli- 
ness, coming before blackberries. They may be tied to high 




122 BIGGIvE: berry BOOK. 

stakes, kept well headed in, for, if allowed to spread on the 
ground, the fruit gets soiled and conies to nothing. 




CHAPTER XXIX. 



CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIKS. 



Give them plenty of manure. — Tim. 

THE currant is a favorite with nearly everybody, and every 
garden should have at least a few plants, and market 
gardeners find profit in growing this fruit for sale. It will 
thrive under nearly every condition, but prefers to be a little 
in the shade, and the soil should be deep, moist and cool. Clay 
soil, with good drainage, suits the currant excellently well. It 
is a good plan to mulch around the bushes with straw or green 
clover, cut in full blossom, through the heats of summer. It is 
the practice of some to shade the currant with grapevines, 
alternating the rows, and this answers a good pui-pose. 

Where possible, it is well to plant five feet each way, using 
1,742 plants to the acre. Do not stint the manure. Currants 
require extra heavy manuring, in order to get berries that will 
command the best price. Not only should the soil be in excel- 
lent tilth at the time of planting, but it should be top-dressed 
yearly (every autumn or early winter), with pig or cow manure. 
There are no fruits that will respond more quickly to good treat- 
ment than these. Cultivate often and keep all grass and weeds 
down. As soon as the leaves fall, the pruning may be done. 
One-third of the current year's growth should be removed, and 
where the wood is crowded, it should be thinned. As the bush 
attains age, two-thirds of the present year's growth is not too 
much to be removed. 

The currant does not come true from seed, and new plants 
are propagated by layering and by cuttings. A cool, moist .soil 
is necessary for starting cuttings, and shade is essential also. 
The cuttings are made about seven inches long, from new 
growth the early part of September. Set these in rows three 
feet apart and five inches in the rows. The soil should be firmly 
impacted around the cuttings, which should be buried, slightly 
leaning, with about an inch out of the ground. They will .soon 
throw out roots, and will be ready to sta.'t in the spring into 
vigorous growth. 



124 BIGGI.E BERRY BOOK. 

Layering is done in the spring, by bending down vigorous 
young branches, and burying them in the earth, leaving the tops 
out ; after rooting, in the fall, the new plants may be severed 
from the parent stem, and the next spring may be transplanted. 

The stem of the currant is subject to the attacks of two kinds 
of borers ; the remedy for both is to cut out and burn all infected 
branches. Their work is discovered by the shriveled appearance, 
after the leaves have fallen in the fall. Sometimes eight or ten 
borers are found in one stem. 

The insects attacking the leaves of the currant are the im- 
ported and native currant worms, and the currant span worm. 
There are numerous others that commit depredations of minor 
importance, but these three are all that are likely to be trouble- 
some. The first two can be kept in subjection by the use of 
powdered hellebore, in the proportion of an ounce of hellebore 
to a pailful of water, sprinkled or spraj^ed on the bushes at their 
first appearance, or hellebore and flour, in equal bulk, dusted on 
wheii the bushes are wet are effective. For the span worm, if 
hellebore be used, the liquid should be made three times the 
usual strength. 

Aphides, or plant lice, sometimes attack the leaves ; these 
are destroyed by spraying with tobacco tea, or by dipping the 
twigs into a pail containing the same. Spraying with the Bor- 
deaux mixture will prevent damage b}^ the fungi, which causes 
the leaves to drop prematurely in the fall. It is best to use this 
mixture freely on all plantations of currants where the foliage 
drops early. 



VARIETIES OF CURRANTS. 

Red Dutch. — This is commonly cultivated and best known, 
bright red m color and small in size. It will hang on the bush 
a long time after getting ripe without being seriously injured. 
The fruit seldom brings the highest price on account of its rather 
small size, but if severely pruned and highly -manured it is 
greatly improved in this respect. 

Victoria.— One of the latest varieties in time of ripening. 
Very satisfactory in every way, and especially valuable for 
marketing. Fruit, red and of large size, and remarkably free 
from attacks of borers. Shown on colored Plate VIII. 



CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES. I25 

Cherry and Versailles. — These are much alike, beiug 
red in color and larg-e in size. The bunches of Versailles are 
longer than those of Cherry. Cherry is shown on colored Plate 
XIX. 

Fay's Prolific. — This is a cross between Cherry and Victoria; 
of large size, dark red in color, of fine flavor and very prolific, 
the bunches being very large. The plant, however, is somewhat 
tender and not as vigorous as the others. A bunch and single 
berry is shown on colored Plate XVII. 

North Star.— This is one of the newer varieties, and is 
recommended for its robust habit and hardiness in cold lati- 
tudes. The berry is small. Shown on colored Plate XVII. 

President Wilder is a seedling of Versailles, and said to be 
better, of excellent quality and very productive. 

Prince Albert is valued for its lateness and great productive- 
ness, but the quality is inferior. Crandall is undesirable, the 
berries ripening at diflTerent times. 

White Grape is the best of the white varieties, and is sweeter 
and more desirable for table use than any before mentioned. It 
is prolific and very satisfactory in the home garden. But white 
currants seldom bring as good a price in the markets as the red 
kinds. Shown on colored Plate XIX. 

White Imperial is a new variety, and said to be sweeter than 
white grape — sweet enough to eat without sugar. White Dutch 
is an old reliable white variety. 

The black currant is seldom eaten from the bush, but for 
pies, jellies and preserves it is very much esteemed. Shown 
on colored Plate XVI. 

THE GOOSEBERRY. 

The culture of the gooseberry is so similar in ; U respects to 
that of the currant that I do not deem it necessary to go into 
special details. Its general requirements are the same, its insect 
and fungous enemies are similar, and are to be overcome the 
same way. Some of the varieties are subject to mildew, which 
is very injurious; this is treated by the sprayer to potassium 
sulphide, one-half ounce to a gallon of water. The sulphide is 
best dissolved by hot water. Some varieties are more subject to 
mildew than others, notably those of foreign origin. 



126 BIGGLE BERRY BOOK. 

It is more difficult to propagate the gooseberry than the 
currant by cuttings, so layering is usually resorted to. The 
layers are put down in June, and are found slightly rooted in 
the autumn. The bushes should be pruned to an open head, to 
allow free access of air, which checks mildew. The ground 
should be well mulched with straw during hot, dry weather. 

VARlETlEvS OF GOOSEBERRIES. 

We show on colored Plate XX five varieties true to life — 
Chautauqua, Columbus, Houghton, Downing and Smith's Im- 
proved. These are all native sorts, and are recommended. 
Columbus is of the largest size, late in ripening, and is very 
fruitful and free from mildew. Industry is another large 
variety, reddish, of fine quality, but somewhat liable to mildew, 
and overbears, requiring the fruit to be thinned. Whitesmith 
and Crown Bob are two of the best foreign sorts, the former 
being of verj' superior quality. Red Jacket is valuable. Down- 
ing is larger than Houghton, and may be classed as reliable and 
one of the best. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Beginning, The 9 

Biography loi 

Currants and Gooseberries 123 

Currants, Varieties of 124 

Distance Apart 43 

Don'ts, A List of no 

Do Varieties Run Out ? . 86 

Gooseberries and Currants 123 

Gooseberries, Varieties of 125 

Insects, lycaf Rust and 89 

Irrigation, Uuderdraining and ' 5 

Labor Saving 38 

Leaf Rust and Insects 89 

Location, Soil and 19 

Manuring and Preparing the Ground 22 

Market, Best Five for 77 

Marketing and Picking 93 

Mulching , . . , 48 

Notes, Additional on Varieties 70 

Picking and Marketing 93 

Pi.stillates, Staminates and 55 

Planting Season, The 29 

Preparing the Ground, Manuring and 22 

Raspberry, The 117 

Raspberry, Black Varieties 120 

Raspberry, Red Varieties 118 

Rust and Insects, Leaf 89 

Saving Labor 38 

Soil and Location 19 

Staminates and Pistillates 55 

Strawberry, The 12 

Strawberry Bed, The Old 83 

Summer Planting 31 



PAGE 

Underdraining and Irrigation 5 

Varieties, Black Raspberry 120 

Varieties, Brief Analysis of 81 

Varieties, Newer, On Trial 73 

Varieties of Currants 124 

Varieties of Gooseberries 125 

Varieties, Red Raspberry ■. . . 118 

Varieties, Ten of Kstablished Merits 61 

Varieties, Ten Other Good 67 

What an Acre May Do 15 




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